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Hi Gene,
So I'm going to start over since its been a week or so since the first post. Also, I would like to include more details. This fridge was given to us by a friend-hadnt been used in awhile but worked fine last they knew. I plugged it in-seemed like everything was ok. 2 days later I noticed freezer seemed fine but fridge was not cold-somewhat cool-cool enough to get a bottled beer somewhat cold, but not cold enough. Since then (approx. 2 weeks) freezer has continued to run fine, but fridge is not even cool anymore. When I first posted a week ago the freezer did not have any frost on the back panel so I figured defrost system was fine. In this last week frost has started to build on back panel and there are frozen drops on roof of freezer. Fridge also has water condensating on roof and then forming a puddle of water on bottom. You advised me previously to remove the back panel from freezer to check the coil. I also thought I should go thru your original post instructions to check the defrost system since frost is appearing now. here is the problem:
1. There is no diagram for my model fridge on this site although i was able to locate one on a sears website. From what I can tell by that there is no defrost timer. I also am not sure how to take off the back panel of the freezer as there is an extra plastic piece in front as well as an ice maker connected to it.
2. From the Sears diagram I cannot see a coil.
I have no experience with this kind of thing but i did just convert my stove from nat. gas to LP successfully. If I am given a good diagram and step by step instructions I think I could figure it out.
Thanks for your time and help,
Wendy
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Originally Posted by: NascarFan24  1. ...I took the back panel off, defrosted the coils and drain...
2. ...Did the "Diagnosis Trouble Shooting" per your directions: Pre readings:
Freezer=3 / Frig=34 / Filter=99......After readings I reset to: Freezer=5 / Frig=38 / Filter= didn't reset it...
3. ...This AM....Turned the unit on and there was no vibraton noise from the Compressor, I assume that's the metal incased part, and the Compressor Fan ran without any noise for half of the day, then quit...
4. ...Will the parts I order be Kitchenaid parts ?...
5. ...I also need to order a new watter filter, hopefully with instructions on how to change it...
6. ...Will an old filter clog up causing water to leak underneath the frig ?...
Hi Nancy, 1. What was the condition of the evaporator coils before you defrosted it? 2. I'm afraid I did not get clear what did you mean "after readings"? If you meant that you did enter the diagnostics mode then what was the reading for each step? This is the most important part. 3. Did the compressor come on later or it was silent for all that "half of the day"? 4. Kitchen Aid is the division of Whirlpool, that's why all parts made by Whirlpool. 5. The new water filter has the instructions on the box. Also, such instructions can be found in the Owner's guide. - The water filter Part number: 4396510
6. Probably not unless it's cracked. More likely it can be a bad water line, a bad water inlet valve or a bad filter housing. All these parts have to be inspected to determine exactly which one is bad. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: rosezhang2000 Hi Gene,
I have the exact problem as the title says. I think it's the defrost system.
But how can I access the defrost part. The back panel seems impossible to remove.
My fridge is Kenmore 106.48212500.
Thanks! In order to remove the rear cover inside the freezer you have to remove all shelves and the ice maker first. The defrost timer is located inside the control box. - The defrost heater Part number: 2323197
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Hi Wendy,
You have to remove the shelves and the ice maker first. The rear cover inside the freezer is secured with a few screws.
Per your last description the problem with the drain in the freezer is more likely then a failed defrost. Check the drain hole under the evaporator coils. Possible it's blocked and frozen up.
Gene.
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Thanks Gene for your reply! So I don't need to remove the back panel on the outside but have to work from the front inside the freezer side, right? I'm going to try tomorrow.
Thanks,
Rose
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Hi Gene,
I will check on that and post what I find.
Thanks, Wendy
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Hi Gene, I opened the inside rear panel. Here's what I see. See attached. The defrost system is still not visible. How do I further dissemble it? I was afraid that I might break the cooling coils. Thanks, Rose rosezhang2000 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi Rose,
If you took this picture without defrosting the refrigerator then there is a problem with the sealed system.
Gene.
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I left the freezer door open for some time before I took off the rear panel. After a few hours when the frost was gone, I did see the heating element behind the cooling coil, and something like the thermostat, but not the defrost timer. Is it possible that my model doesn't have one? And I couldn't figure out how to remove the heater if necessary.
What's a seal problem?
Is it ok to run the fridge without the rear panel?
Thanks,
Rose
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Rank: Member
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Gene,
Maytag side by side RSW24EODAB
I have been following this thread and I hope I am not beating a dead horse: cold freezer warm fridge. It must be very frustrating to have people ask the same question over and over. My question is a little different I think. I ascertained by following your troubleshooting that the defroster heater is bad. When I removed it one of the elements was broken. I have ordered a new one. Now here is my question: I have defrosted the evap coils and checked for obstructions into the fridge compartment, and found none but the fridge still doesn't seem to be cooling well. How long should we expect it to take for it to cool to recommended temp once the unit has been unplugged for a few hours? Otherwise I can't come up with a good reason that the fridge doesn't cool. It seems poor efficency to just let the cool air build up in the freezer and ooze over into the fridge. wouldn't using a fan to blow it there be more efficient?
Thanks for all your patient hard work.
Tom Valley
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