See this page 4th in the post for the old Tub Seal Sleeve that must be removed prior to installing new Tub Seal. There is not much info on seating the Tub Seal into the bottom of the Outer Tub. You just insert that rubber seal into the top part of the Outer Tub seat by hand. Then slip the Spinner Support shaft thru the seal passing thru the Upper and Lower Out Tub bearings. Torque down Spinner Nut to your best guess unless you have a torque wrench, see the SM for torque spec I just tighten snug.

The first 10 pages of this thread should answer all questions. Both forum members were rebuilding the Outer Tub and both machines are Series 10 like yours. They elected to follow my lead and replace Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings. If you have no issues with bearing noise prior to the rebuild you can push out that work your call.

I will be away from the key board until late tomorrow...........Dick

I have to make this quick I'm on the job.

From reading your past post at the speed of light your past issue was the Wash Basket rotating CW in wash cycle correct?

With no upper bearring ring the One-Way bearing in the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly failed and allowed the CW rotation of the wash basket in wash cycle.

You are lucky that your Outer Tub design has the notches in the outer tub to seat the new Upper Bearing Ring. Some owners do not have the notches to seat the the Upper Bearing ring in later series. That Upper Bearing Ring prevents the Wash Basket from rotating CW in wash cycle.

What I feel happened is the Lower Outer Tub bearing that has that One-Way bearing as part of that bearing assembly disengrated and allowed CW wash basket rotation in wash cycle.

I would plan one a Tub Seal, Tranny O-Ring, and Outer Tub bearing job down the road.

Will the Wash basket spin up to 850 RPM with a medium size load?

Any Outer Tub bearing noise in Spin Cycle?

The rusted up parts of the Clutch Pulley will tell you the health of the Tub Seal/Tranny O-ring.........Dick

Read thru this post Where are the bearings?

You a have to space out I believe the lower outer tub bearing because of a bearing thickness difference you will see the difference on rebuild. I have not rebuilt my series 15 or 17 that uses that intergrated lower Outer Tub bearing that is a split bearing assembly. One half is the One-Way bearing ring and the second half is ball bearing.

DB App. post of 06-15-2011, 05:09 PM in that thread was an excellent write up on the shims needed to make up for bearing thickness difference of using 6207-RS bearings for the rebuild. The One-Way bearing half of that bearing assembly failed for you and allowed the wash basket to rotate CW in wash cycle.......CW clutch pulley rotation. Keep us posted on your rebuild and good luck......Dick

DB App in the Where are the bearings? thread calls the shims out as;

""Lowe's has a set of door knob to deadbolt adpaters that do indead look like breaker box conduit shims. (that is how I found them and recognized them when I found them) They are item number 1165 in the door knob aisle. There 2 per pack and the fellow above used a total of 4 to complete his washer repair. The O/D is 2 & 3/16". The I/D is a hole 1 & 1/2" diameter. The thickness of the 2 adapters in the blister pack is 3/16" total. All 4 shims would = 3/8" total shim pack thickness for what it's worth.””

""I'am not quite sure I totally understand where the shims go and what they are doing.""

From what I understand the combined....... what I call the intergrated One-Way Bearing combined with the ball bearing is the Lower Outer Tub Bearing. When you pounded out the Lower Outer Tub bearing was it that the bearing assembly.....the split bearing assembly?

You have to make up for the bearing thickness difference with the shims when installing the 6207-2RS bearing for that combined bearing thickness you replaced so that you can torque down the Spinner Nut to seat the Tub Seal. When you come up with the shims follow the Service Manual for torque page 19 “” Spinner Support Shaft Nut 64-80 ft. lbs.”” I just torque to what I felt was snug to properly seat the Tub Seal.

I have not rebuilt my FAV6800A’s that will need the shims only the Series 10 machine that used the Upper Bearing Ring above the Clutch Pulley.

Your right you are real close to the fix if you can put together the proper shims. The Maytag boys did not make this an easy repair for the DIY community. Their answer for repair folks is to replace the whole Outer Tub to get a new set of Outer Tub bearings at $400+ plus $$$ labor cost.

Would did you pay for the Tub Seal, Tranny O-Ring and a set of 6207-2RS bearings? I paid less then $7 for two 6207-2RS bearings delivered to the house.

Good luck you are very close to returning to normal service……….Dick

""I went to Lowes and spoke with the employees there. They could not find any such part and the part number provided came back to a totally different item. There was a brass strike plate for door knobs, but it had a 3 1/8" outer diameter. I looked for washers, but the biggest had a 7/8" inner diameter which wouldn't fit where I was trying to put it.""

I can only go by what other folks have come with for shims I have not rebuilt my main machine which is a series 17 only my series 10 machine which used the Upper One-Way Bearing ring see 1st pic. I do believe your original Split Bearing assembly was the Lower Outer Tub bearing.


Do you remember on disassembly when you removed that Lower Outer Tub bearing? One half of the bearing is plain ball bearing and the other half is the One-Way bearing. That half of the bearing assembly (One-Way bearing) takes the place of the Upper Bearing ring. It allows rotation in the CCW direction in support of the Spin Cycle and locks up in the CW direction to prevent the wash basket from rotating CW during the wash cycle. Our problem as owners is that the Split bearing assembly can’t be found in the US……maybe in somewhere in China.

So the work around is to install plain vanilla 6207-2RS bearings in both the Upper and Lower Outer Tub bearings hubs of the tub and then shim out the Lower Outer Tub bearing because of reduced bearing thickness of the original Split Bearing assembly. Then you can torque down the Spinner Nut to seat the Tub Seal and prevent the leak you are now experiencing.


""Sorry, I'm a slow learner. I was trying to install them on the very bottom of the tub between the new bearing and the large nut. Is that not the correct area?""

Don’t be sorry you are performing work that most owners walk away from. You have done the hard part you just need to get the shims that will build out the thickness that will allow you to properly torque down the Spinner Support nut and seat the Tub Seal.

Did your Lower Outer Tub bearing look like the split bearing assembly 2nd, 3rd,4th pics? It should have.

One half of the bearing is plain ball bearing and the other half is the One-Way bearing. That half of the bearing assembly (One-Way bearing) takes the place of the Upper Bearing ring. It allows rotation in the CCW direction in support of the Spin Cycle and locks up in the CW direction to prevent the wash basket from rotating CW during the wash cycle. Our problem as owners is that the Split bearing assembly can’t be found in the US. I and others have tried to locate.

The Clutch Pulley is spun CW during the wash/agitate cycle and CCW for the Spin Cycle. It took me a while to figure that out how they locked the Wash Basket down for CW Clutch Pulley rotation............Dick