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Looks like you have a bad condensing motor that is burning out the motor drive circuit in the control board, all the symptoms point in that direction!
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Originally Posted by: richappy Looks like you have a bad condensing motor that is burning out the motor drive circuit in the control board, all the symptoms point in that direction! What is a condensing motor? Do you mean the motor for the condenser fan? If so, I purchased and installed one new from this site prior to purchasing and installing the control board. Are you saying the new fan I purchased has a bad motor? Chris
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Get a line cord and plug in the motor to the wall outlet, if it runs fine, you have other problems, maybe a intermittent wire. Best to locate where the motor wires go to to trace it down to either a bad connection, or a bad board. Looks like you have a power variac in the control board by the compressor AP4411082, most probably your problem. This board is inside a cover and not the inverter board.
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Is there also a temperature trigger for the fan? The freezer started heating up again today and the fan came on and remained on until the freezer cooled back off (I have had a box fan moving air across the coils and turned it up a level to bring the temp down).
Does the fact that the fan runs reliably when the temperature of the coolant is elevated indicate that the fan circuit is ok?
If so, why do the temperatures continue to elevate even with a box fan moving air across the condenser coils? Has my compressor become damaged by the elevated temperatures? The coolant less effective?
I also noticed water now in the drip pan underneath as well as on top of the water valve bracket. I recently replaced the water valve and ice maker (parts not purchased from here). Bad valve? Drainage due to elevated freezer temps?
Chris
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I would replace the control board in the back AP4411082
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I actually provided incorrect information. The fan is still running, even with the fridge temps at the set levels.
Still go ahead with the AP4411082?
Chris
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Pull off the freezer back panel and describe the frost pattern, total light frost, or partial.
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Originally Posted by: richappy Pull off the freezer back panel and describe the frost pattern, total light frost, or partial. I would interpret it as a "total light frost". A white, fuzzy coating across all fins and tubing. I did notice that whenever I opened the door to move food out, or remove hardware, the freezer would heat up (of course), and the door frame would also. I boosted the box fan speed again to push temps back down. Update: 7:30pm - Freezer evap coils are now thawing and freezer temp is rising. Fan is not running. Divider is not hot. It's cool. Update: 7:40pm - Coils thawed completely. The compressor kicked on, but no fan. Divider is warming. Freezer temp about 28F. Coils are refreezing. Update: 8:15pm - I turned off the box fan to see if the on-board fan would trigger if the condenser coils got hot. No joy. Box fan is back on. Temps are dropping. Update: 10:15pm - Freezer still at 14F. Fan has not been on when I've checked. Divider is lukewarm to cool. Evaporator coil has heavier frost at top and is almost clear at bottom. ?? Chris
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Turn the controls to the coldest setting and measure the stabilized freezer temperature.
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Originally Posted by: richappy Turn the controls to the coldest setting and measure the stabilized freezer temperature. Freezer set at -6F. Reads -6F. Fridge set at 32F. Reads 32F. I also realized this morning that leaving the evaporator coil cover off reduced the ability for the system to draw air over the coils, so I reinstalled the cover and the freezer temps dropped right down. I'm still using the box fan to push air over the condenser coils though... Chris
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