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Hi Paul, If the LED is flashing while the flapper is closed, the beam is not blocked and the door light switch is not pushed in, then the problem is a bad optics. The solution is to replace both optic boards. - The optic boards kit Part number: AP3137510
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi Paul, If the LED is flashing while the flapper is closed, the beam is not blocked and the door light switch is not pushed in, then the problem is a bad optics. The solution is to replace both optic boards. - The optic boards kit Part number: AP3137510
Hi Gene I have Kitchenaid model KSCK25FVMS01. Icemaker was working intermittently now not at all. Water dispenser works, new filter. LED flashes twice with door open. Twice with beam flapper closed. LED is out with flapper closed and door switch pushed in simulating door closed. From previous threads this appears to be NOT normal. Am I correct in this conclusion? What is my next step. Thanks!
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Gene,
Read through this thread and have tried all the fixes with no luck. Icemaker is not making ice. Jumped all combos but get no reaction, line tested L and N for 120V ac (checks good) - new motor I purchased from you last year thinking that was the problem - didn't fix it and had given up. Troubleshooting again today to see if there is something I overlooked, but think I've tried everything except replacing valve. Any other suggestions before I go to that step?
Model KSRA25FKSS00
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: jflatley Gene,
Read through this thread and have tried all the fixes with no luck. Icemaker is not making ice. Jumped all combos but get no reaction, line tested L and N for 120V ac (checks good) - new motor I purchased from you last year thinking that was the problem - didn't fix it and had given up. Troubleshooting again today to see if there is something I overlooked, but think I've tried everything except replacing valve. Any other suggestions before I go to that step?
Model KSRA25FKSS00
Thanks 1. Did you check the water feeding tube into the ice maker for ice inside? 2. Did you swap the wires between the water inlet valve solenoids and check for water inside the ice maker after pressing the water dispenser lever? If you did both tests and the results were negative, replace the water inlet valve. - The water inlet valve Part number: AP5263471
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Did all that with negative results. Ordered the inlet valve. Thanks for the quick reply.
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene. Wow - ordered parts yesterday afternoon, and received them before noon today. I'm impressed. Installed valve and now the ice maker is up and running like new. Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are welcome. I'm glad it's up and running.
Gene.
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Gene, thanks for all of your info on this thread. I'm pretty confident what my next steps are now. I just wanted to confirm the information on the test points on the Control Module. My wiring diagram does not show them and the only reference I saw on this thread was on 07-01-2011 and it didn't clearly lay things out. Model is KSRG22FKSS15. The troubleshooting was a bit frustrating because the trouble changed a couple of times.
Please confirm or correct:
L&N - 120V input. Powers the module. The Emitter and Receiver must be working for the power to be there. The black wire on the ice maker is a fusible link which could also be the problem.
H&T - If 120V is present, shorting H&T will bypass the bi-metal strip and the Control Module motor will run initiating a harvest cycle.
L&V - Shorting will dispense water.
M&N - ?????
H&N - Shorting powers the heater to the mold releasing the ice.
Thanks again Gene. From here I can actually see the United States but as you don't ship here I'm going to have to satisfied with your assistance and paying double the price for the parts locally.
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Hi Andrew,
Everything you wrote is correct, but you did not mention what exactly is wrong with it?
Gene.
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