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KULTULZ  
#11 Posted : Thursday, March 8, 2012 12:28:07 PM(UTC)
KULTULZ

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post


That is this site's proprietary part #.


Is it a direct GE Service Part or a generic replacement?:confused:
richappy  
#12 Posted : Friday, March 9, 2012 12:25:38 AM(UTC)
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It should be a GE part, just ask befor ordering.
KULTULZ  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, March 13, 2012 10:03:19 PM(UTC)
KULTULZ

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PDS20MCRBB

Serial No. MG051153

:(

OK, I replaced the GE control board and now have the temp displays and the bottom freezer section works but no cooling to the refrigerator section. What did I allow to burnout now as a result of not replacing the board when I should have?

The condenser fan is working.
richappy  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 12:36:29 AM(UTC)
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Is the compressor cold, or warm and vibrating?
KULTULZ  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 3:55:50 AM(UTC)
KULTULZ

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post


Is the compressor cold, or warm and vibrating?


When I removed the machine compartment access cover as directed in STEP 4 of the instruction sheet (power off), I found the compressor to be warm to the touch while performing dust patrol. I reinstalled the cover without checking operating touch temp. I will if you think necessary.

BTW- The refrigerator is now in continuous run mode and the freezer compartment is at correct (or set) temp. The refrig section is @ room temp.

THANX!
richappy  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 5:08:15 AM(UTC)
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These compressors, GE ,are low hp units, they take longer to chill the box down.
KULTULZ  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 6:43:51 AM(UTC)
KULTULZ

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post


These compressors, GE ,are low hp units, they take longer to chill the box down.


But over 24hrs? I finally unplugged it as I feared it would damage something else running @ full speed. I followed that instruction sheet exactly (I hope) and there were no wires to cut @ J1 or was there a capacitor @ the power cord entry.

I have this strange feeling I have done something wrong.

So your advice is to let it run?

AGAIN THANX! ;)

PS
- (French For I Forgot)

Quote:
But over 24hrs? I finally unplugged it as I feared it would damage something else running @ full speed.
I did not post this on the above post. My oversight. I plugged her back in at about 1500hrs yesterday and you see the post time (0200). When I checked it again this morning, it (refrig- not freezer) was # -1 and the box @ 70.
richappy  
#18 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 7:28:27 AM(UTC)
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Did you check the model # prefix to see if you have to cut any thermistor wires? If ok, they may have shipped you a bad board as your damper door is apparently not working. If closed, plug in the old motherboard and see if the damper door now works.
KULTULZ  
#19 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 8:51:30 AM(UTC)
KULTULZ

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post


Did you check the model # prefix to see if you have to cut any thermistor wires? If ok, they may have shipped you a bad board as your damper door is apparently not working. If closed, plug in the old motherboard and see if the damper door now works.


Yes. There was no wire in Pin2 of the J1 connector (Step 2). Instructions read to proceed to Step 3- Install New Main Board.

Step 4- Cut Green Wire In Capacitor Board (Note- Only applicable for BOTTOM FREEZER models)

Quote:

  • Remove the machine compartment access cover
  • Locate the capacitor in the plastic housing (no housing found)
  • If the capacitor is not present, skip to Step 5
Step 5- Check Operation

Quote:

  • Ensure that the unit is operating properly. Make sure the compressor and evaporator fan turn on. Check that the temperature board is functioning
I reinstalled the grill before powering up. I watch the cond fan turning through the grill slots. I a$$-u-med the compressor was working as all sounded normal. The temp display lit up again. But the upper section refuses to cool while the freezer will give you frost bite... :cool:

This was the same failure mode after the board stopped making clicking sounds. It went for a few weeks and the refrig section began not cooling properly.
KULTULZ  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, March 14, 2012 4:35:19 PM(UTC)
KULTULZ

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...that this refrig had a damper door asm go bad and caused the resultant clicking from the control board? I did not (like a moron) confirm which component was making the clicking noise on the board. I simply replaced it after total failure.

While looking at the original board, it appears that there is a burn spot on a paper tag attached to the ground wire (GREEN). It appears the burn spot could have been against Component # C30 (?) or a component beneath it marked 30H-2003 DCGM 0414C.

Is it also possible the replacement board is defective? Where would one find the diagnostic sequence to identify, in the Repair Manual?
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