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Tom H  
#11 Posted : Sunday, March 8, 2009 6:40:11 AM(UTC)
Tom H

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Yes. If I did it correctly, I believe it was "open". Current would flow through the switch with a volt meter. Perhaps I dont understand...should I have checked the new switch also?
Gene  
#12 Posted : Sunday, March 8, 2009 3:35:27 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Tom H Go to Quoted Post
...I believe it was "open". Current would flow through the switch with a volt meter...


Looks like you did not test it right. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter ior a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter.

Retest the old switch and post the results.

Gene.
Tom H  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 6:22:39 AM(UTC)
Tom H

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Gene, not sure if you have rec'd my replys (today and 3/13) I did recheck the switch using your instructions. The ohm meter reads zero (00.0) on both the old and the new switch. When the meter leads are not touching anything it reads OL. Hope I did this correctly. Any advice?
Gene  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 11:38:42 AM(UTC)
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Tom,

Both switches (old and new) are good. Lets start it over. Does the Broil work or both of them (Bake and Broil) are not heating?

Gene.
Tom H  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:21:38 AM(UTC)
Tom H

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Gene, both the broil and bake elements do not come on. All I get is "Pre Heat-100".
Gene  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:02:51 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Tom,

Reset the circuit breakers for the oven and run it again.

If it would not help then open the control panel and locate the terminal block (where the incoming power wires connected to the oven). Check for 120 VAC between each or them (Red and Black) and ground. Inspect the power wires from the terminal block to the relay board.

Post the results.

Gene.
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