No power at all, even when the door is opened and no light.

Have gone through the normal Sequence thus far:
Good voltage at the wall outlet (120v both sides)
Good continuity at the thermal fuse
Continuity at the push to start switch although with so many terminals not 100% sure which ones to test. But should still have a light when door is opened.

Wiring harness is good and good voltage coming in.

Possible control board fried?

Lost!

OK, so have done thorough testing and the following applies:

Lint chute and flex pipe and pipe to outside are clean. Check
Blower wheel and housing clean. Check
Incoming wiring harness has 240v and 120v each side. Check
Dryer thermal fuse has good continuity. Check
Dryer cycle thermostat good continuity. Check
Thermal cut-off and hi-limit thermostat good continuity. Check
Heater element has 9.5 ohms resistance and is clean with no breaks and is not shorted to case. Check
Felt seal around drum is in good shape and seals well. Check
No continuity across the hi and low side of the temperature switch? Center position has continuity.

Moving to the Voltage side we have:
Zero volts across the temperature switch while dryer is running at red wires.
Zero volts at the heater element at red wires.
Zero volts across the red and black wires at the control timer while running.

Seems to me a lack of voltage across the control timer wires indicates the control timer has failed. everything else seems to check out with the exception of the control board, which I don't know how to check or what to look for either in resistance or voltage. I have ordered a new temperature switch, but due to it's mechanical function, feel this is not the problem. I am perplexed about the lack of resistance at the switch though. On digital meter it just reads infinity on both the outside settings. (SB under 10,000 on low and over 10000 on high)

Any further items I might have missed? Any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

John