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Gene  
#251 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2009 1:16:21 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: CalX Go to Quoted Post
...there is some heat shrink sleeve that is to be placed over the crimp connector that is just not long enough to provide a water-tight seal...


Sorry for the delay. There is no need for a water-tight seal. A shrink sleeve is just an additional electrical protection. In order to protect the crimps from water just make them sitting higher then a possible snow level.

Gene.
Gene  
#252 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2009 1:18:47 PM(UTC)
Gene

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John,

Your refrigerator operates by an electronics. It does not have a classic defrost timer.

Gene.
Gene  
#253 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2009 1:45:08 PM(UTC)
Gene

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cokemanjimbo,

The cold air coming into the refrigerator through the air diffuser (#26 on the break down diagram) and controls by the freezer control knob. Higher number you set means less air flow into the refrigerator.

Gene.
dtrthesignguy  
#254 Posted : Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:59:50 AM(UTC)
dtrthesignguy

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I am having the popular freezer fine, fridge to warm problem as well. I have an old Gibson freezer on top model #67-263RI and I was having ice build up below the coils,on the drain tray, turned out to be at least I think that the drain was plugged. I may have more questions. But first I have to get this thing back together to test it.
My current problem is when I took the fan blade off to clean it I forgot which way it went on. It sets above the coils mounted to the back with a little plastic louver over it. Is the fan suppose to blow in towards the freezer compartment? Or is it supposed to draw air back out of the freezer compartment towards the back wall? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave
dfirsdon  
#255 Posted : Wednesday, January 14, 2009 7:37:21 AM(UTC)
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Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost" terminal on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.

If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.

i have a ge model #gbs22kbpabb that the defost system is not working. i tested the conector as stated above and got 15 ohms. i have tested the heater itself and got 31 ohms. also tested the thermistor cold and at room temp. and have continuity both ways. not sure where to go from here. any help would greatly be appriaciated.

thanks
dave
ptraynha  
#256 Posted : Monday, January 26, 2009 4:36:38 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator &#8211; the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag &#8211; it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one &#8211; a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the &#8220;search&#8221; button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step&#8230;

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it&#8217;s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it&#8217;s frozen because if it&#8217;s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

I have a GE Profile TFH22PRSMWW. About two weeks ago, I noticed the fridge was warm 45 degress, but the freezer was fine. I vacuumed under the fridge and defrosted it. There was a lot of water that came out the bottom, but stopped after about a day. Then, everything was fine. Just this morning, I noticed the fridge was acting up again, but the freezer is fine (-10F).

I found your very helfpul tutorial when Googling, and turned the timer as suggested. I turned it clockwise till I heard the fan go off. After about 15 minutes, I checked the freezer and I didn't hear any sizzling. After about 15 or 20 minutes, I heard the fan come back on. I suspect this means the timer is working? Also, when I look into the freezer, I can see frost on the panel. I am guessing this means when I remove the panel, I will see frost build up on the coils, but I have not done that yet.

I plan on pulling off the panel and checking the defrost heater as suggested, but wanted to double check and make sure I am doing everything right thus far.

Regards,
Gene  
#257 Posted : Monday, January 26, 2009 7:49:19 PM(UTC)
Gene

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ptraynha,

You are on the right track. Check the defrost heaters and the defrost thermostat for continuity.

Here are the break down diagrams for the GE refrigerator Model TFH22PRSMWW

Gene.
picman1  
#258 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:53:26 AM(UTC)
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my hotpoint refrigerator runs continuos after i manually had to defrost it
Gene  
#259 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2009 12:11:15 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Picman1,

What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

Can you be more specific on the problem?

Gene.
ptraynha  
#260 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2009 3:21:10 PM(UTC)
ptraynha

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Gene,

Lools like one of the heater coils was broken in the center. The coils were completely frosted up. Looks like I'll be buying the defrost heater assembly.

One question: Because of all the frost, when I pulled out the heater assembly and disconnected it, I couldn't tell where the thermostat was located. When I install the new one, is there a specific location I should place the thermostat? I wasn't sure if there is a wrong place to put it.

Thanks,
Paul
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