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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RED4440VQ1 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

[COLOR="DarkRed"].can the timer control keep the element from heating up?[/COLOR]
Yes it can the heating coil gets power through the AB and BC timer contacts.

In timed dry does the timer advance when the motor is running?
In timed dry the timer motor is connected directly to the 240 volts by timer contacts TF. So if it advances you know that you have 240 volts to the unit.

When the original timer would not advance did you try it in both auto and timed dry modes?
It's motor gets power through different circuit paths depending on the mode.

Beside the thermal cut-off in the heater circuit you also have the operating thermostat and the hi-limit thermostat.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]checked all fuses and thermostats and the element, even the little white fuse over by vent tube.I also replaced the breaker in the house.So your saying that if timer winds down on timed cycle but not autodry,that my heating problem is not because of the timer.[/COLOR]
Not totally, you still could have contact problems in the timer.
But here is what it does tell you.
1. You have the 240 volts that the heating coil requires.
2. That the centrifugal switch on the motor is closing.
3. That for some reason the L2 voltage is not getting through the heater to run the timer motor when in auto cycles.

So the first thing to re-check is the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case.

If it is OK then reconnect the heating coil.
Leave the unit unplugged and set the timer to a mid scale timed dry cycle.
Set your meter to it's most sensitive scale.
Attach one meter lead to L1. This can be at the power cord plug or the timer (BK).
Now work you way back through the heater circuit.
BK on the timer should be 0 ohms
B on the timer should be 0 ohms
A on the timer should be 0 ohms
R at the Thermal Cutoff should be 0 ohms
R-w at the Thermal Cutoff should be 0 ohms.
R-W at the Operating Thermostat should be 0 ohms (both sides).
Be aware that the operating thermostat has 4 connectors. You want to measure on the red heavier wire connections.
R at Hi Limit should be 0 ohms (both sides).
Left side of heating coil (from the Hi Limit should be 0 ohms.
The right side of the heating coil should be 8 to 12 ohms.

FYI:
In timed dry the timer motor gets power directly from the line through the centrifugal switch and timer contacts T-F.
In auto modes it gets power through the centrifugal switch and the heating coil (when the heating coil is turned off by the operating thermostat) and timer contacts T-X.