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Originally Posted by: Gene  Run the Service Diagnostics mode as described in the attached Tech sheet and post the results.
In the model number you posted you missed one letter between "V" & "0".
Gene. Originally Posted by garagewear  I have a Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXV01. Has a constant beep and the fridge temp has risen to about 65. I have replaced the evap fan motor and defrost thermostat then noticed the damper was not opening to the fridge. I opened up the damper and the motor closed it back and still beeping. I unplugged the damper motor and the beeping quit. Is it the damper motor or the controller board?
** Just noticed the evap fan runs a couple of minutes, cycles off and beeps then starts back.
*** It ran all night. Freezer is -2 and Fridge is 49. I don't feel it blowing anymore but still getting the beep. Now the frequency is about every 30 seconds. Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXVA01
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Hi my problem was like the standard freezer working but refrgerator warm, but with a added door light problem. the refrigerator light would stay on when the door was shut and with in a few min. would go off and stay off. If I un plugged the refrigerator and re plugged the light would go on and through this cycle. I had a feeling that the light was the problem with the warming (because I checked everything else, transformer, board, and therms.)
I was right, it was the simplest fix and this is what I did,
gently pull out door switch light with a screw driver.
pull out the wire connection.( when i did this the refrigerator fan started)
Ohm the 1 and 2 pins should be open then ohm the 3 and 4 pins
(the refrigerator side showed contact reading)
I opened up the switch and could see that the pin was on a constant connection so I gently pulled and bent the pin away from the contact( look at the other side of the switch the freezer side for example)
put the switch back together and reconnected to the refrigerator .
And this fixed the warming problem. It is working great now
I have a samsung modelRB1955sw
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I have the Kenmore side by side unit (#59652673200) and have the same issue discussed here; high temperature in the fresh food side and frozen evap in the freezer. I defrosted the unit and tested the heating element and it tested ok (29.5 ohms). However, I did not test the defrost thermostat because it is no longer frozen. The unit also has the Adaptor Defrost Board. I only want to replace the defective part(s). The evap fan, compressor, compressor fan etc works fine.
Questions:
1. How do I test the defrost thermostat and what is a good reading? Thinking I have to remove, refreeze and then test.
2. How do I test the Adaptor Defrost Board and what is a good reading?
3. Or should I just replace both the thermostat and adaptor defrost board and be done with it?
Any help is appreciated
Thanks...Al
Update: I removed the defrost thermostat and placed it in my freezer for about 1 hour and it tested ok, so I guess that leaves me with the adaptor defrost board as the culprit.
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Originally Posted by: Methodical ...Update: I removed the defrost thermostat and placed it in my freezer for about 1 hour and it tested ok, so I guess that leaves me with the adaptor defrost board as the culprit.... If the result of the defrost thermostat continuity test was close to 0 Ohms then you are on the right track. The new Adaptive Defrost Control board should fix the problem. - The ADC board Part number: AP4014734
Gene.
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Thanks Gene. Kind of you to be so helpful. Originally Posted by: Gene If the result of the defrost thermostat continuity test was close to 0 Ohms then you are on the right track. The new Adaptive Defrost Control board should fix the problem. - The ADC board Part number: AP4014734
Gene.
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I have a Magic Chef side by side CSB2121ARA the freezer works well, the fridge is 65 degrees!
The frame of the fridge is HOT. The evaporator coils are clean, no frost (should there be a light frost?), the fan in the freezer works. We cleaned the condenser coils. The condenser fan comes on so it is apparently working.
The tray in the freezer is draining properly, the tray in the back of the fridge is draining.
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This is in reference to post 1284 and reply in 1286.
I did the trick with the defrost timer. waited about 12 minutes and didnt hear any sizzle, didnt hear much of anything until the time clicked back to freezer mode around 14 minutes.
Finally got around to taking everything out of the freezer and putting it in a cooler today, Noticed that ice is already forming in the back after 2 weeks, definitely no defrost going on now. Everything was iced up so I had to defrost it first to get a look at the thermostat and the heater.
Looks like both had their leads go into a plastic coupler (or whatever they are called, wires are pressed into plastic fittings). I really wasnt in a mind to try and pry out one end on the defrost heater just to test continuity and then not get the thing back working.
Unless in general one part is the must likely culprit here (defrost thermostat or the defrost heater) I am of a mind to just buy both parts just in case.
I am a bit concerned about swapping the defrost heater. That thing is just not that flexible and it looks like its wedged into some slots on the evaporator assembly. The heater did not seem to want to move easily. I have a feeling there is going to be a lot of blood on the evaporator :( trying to get that thing out of there. Any secrets to impart on messing with this thing?
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Originally Posted by: EPAJAK I have a Magic Chef side by side CSB2121ARA the freezer works well, the fridge is 65 degrees!
The frame of the fridge is HOT. The evaporator coils are clean, no frost (should there be a light frost?), the fan in the freezer works. We cleaned the condenser coils. The condenser fan comes on so it is apparently working.
The tray in the freezer is draining properly, the tray in the back of the fridge is draining. When did you clean the condenser coils? How hot on touch is the compressor? Did you put the cover back in place? Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF CSB2121ARA REF - SXS | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: smackattack This is in reference to post 1284 and reply in 1286.
I did the trick with the defrost timer. waited about 12 minutes and didnt hear any sizzle, didnt hear much of anything until the time clicked back to freezer mode around 14 minutes.
Finally got around to taking everything out of the freezer and putting it in a cooler today, Noticed that ice is already forming in the back after 2 weeks, definitely no defrost going on now. Everything was iced up so I had to defrost it first to get a look at the thermostat and the heater.
Looks like both had their leads go into a plastic coupler (or whatever they are called, wires are pressed into plastic fittings). I really wasnt in a mind to try and pry out one end on the defrost heater just to test continuity and then not get the thing back working.
Unless in general one part is the must likely culprit here (defrost thermostat or the defrost heater) I am of a mind to just buy both parts just in case.
I am a bit concerned about swapping the defrost heater. That thing is just not that flexible and it looks like its wedged into some slots on the evaporator assembly. The heater did not seem to want to move easily. I have a feeling there is going to be a lot of blood on the evaporator :( trying to get that thing out of there. Any secrets to impart on messing with this thing?
Thanks in advance for the help. What is the complete model number of the refrigerator? Gene.
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