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I have a Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXV01. Has a constant beep and the fridge temp has risen to about 65. I have replaced the evap fan motor and defrost thermostat then noticed the damper was not opening to the fridge. I opened up the damper and the motor closed it back and still beeping. I unplugged the damper motor and the beeping quit. Is it the damper motor or the controller board?
** Just noticed the evap fan runs a couple of minutes, cycles off and beeps then starts back.
*** It ran all night. Freezer is -2 and Fridge is 49. I don't feel it blowing anymore but still getting the beep. Now the frequency is about every 30 seconds.
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Originally Posted by: garagewear  I have a Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXV01. Has a constant beep and the fridge temp has risen to about 65. I have replaced the evap fan motor and defrost thermostat then noticed the damper was not opening to the fridge. I opened up the damper and the motor closed it back and still beeping. I unplugged the damper motor and the beeping quit. Is it the damper motor or the controller board?
** Just noticed the evap fan runs a couple of minutes, cycles off and beeps then starts back.
*** It ran all night. Freezer is -2 and Fridge is 49. I don't feel it blowing anymore but still getting the beep. Now the frequency is about every 30 seconds. Run the Service Diagnostics mode as described in the attached Tech sheet and post the results. In the model number you posted you missed one letter between "V" & "0". Gene.
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Hi Gene,
I seem to be having the same problem as many others seem to. The freezer works fine but the refrigerator doesn't. We have a Kenmore side by side Model #253.53713300.
We discovered that if we tap on the Temperture Control box - the fans starts up and the refrigerator cools back down to 30 degrees in about 15 minutes but then shuts off until we tap it again. Without tapping it - it's around 50 degrees. We have both the freezer & Refrigerator set at the highest settings in hopes of keeping the food at least somewhat cooled in the refrigerator. It seems the place we need to tap is on the Fresh Food dial. Any idea of which component we should try to replace first?
Thanks!!
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Originally Posted by: JimScharenbroch ...It seems the place we need to tap is on the Fresh Food dial... Jim, If you are sure that this is the fresh food control then this thermostat has to be replaced. - The fresh food thermostat Part number: AP2116225
Another solution is to replace the whole control box. This kit includes both (freezer & fresh food) cold controls, damper control, defrost control board, wire harness and installation instructions. It will cost you more money but it will make the repair much more reliable. - The control box kit Part number: AP5176342
Gene.
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Thanks Gene!
We've decided to replace the entire unit. We'll let you know how it goes!
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Glad I found this place, was about to just start shopping for a new fridge.
I have a roper RT18BKXJW00 and this exactly describes my problem.
First time was around a year ago, found some info on another site, took off the back cover in the freezer and the coils were iced over solid.
About 3 months ago the ice was actually not just solid over the coils, but a layer of ice was on the outside cover (once i moved stuff out of my freezer to see it)
Fridge getting warm again, so its happened again. Obviously getting worse, just defrosted it again yesterday.
The OPs first post is excellent, the links were great, and it seems easy enough for me to try, I just need a slight push in the right direction before I start
1. Where is the defrost timer in this refer? Is it #4 in this diagram, and what do I actually turn if it is? [HTML]http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=261674&diagram_id=28259576#d28259576[/HTML]
2. if this unit doesnt have a defrost timer, then the problem is in the defrost heater or thermostat, is #4 in this diagram the ticket?
[HTML]http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=261674&diagram_id=28238397#d28238397[/HTML]
Thanks for any help in advance. Great resourse and post, outside of a little nudge, that post gives me the confidence to try and fix this myself.
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Samsung RB215LABP
Bottom freezer model. Freezes well. Refrigerator temp no lower than 48 degrees.
I removed the panel inside the refer box to expose the evaporator.
Evap was frozen up. The evap fan works fine.
There are two thermistors (yellow wire sensors). One attached to the bottom of the evap, the other in the panel I removed to get to the evap. I checked resistance of each. One was 4.7k ohms, the other 5.0k ohms.
There is a plug with red/black wires. This goes to something that looks sort of like a cylinder with a cone on top. It is sealed in clear plastic and wrapped in soft foam.
There is another plug with red/white wires. This goes to the evap heater and drain tray heater. Evap heater reads 113 ohms. Drain tray heater reads 340 ohms.
Anyone have any ideas as to what is going on? I really need some help!
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Originally Posted by: smackattack ...1. Where is the defrost timer in this refer? Is it #4 in this diagram, and what do I actually turn if it is?...
...2. the problem is in the defrost heater or thermostat, is #4 in this diagram the ticket?... 1. Yes, the defrost timer is shown as #4 on the diagram. You have to turn the shaft which is inside the red circle on the attached picture. 2. The defrost heater is shown as #4 on the diagram. The defrost thermostat is not shown on the diagrams (don't ask me why) but the Part number: AP3108445
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Originally Posted by: paracutin Samsung RB215LABP
Bottom freezer model. Freezes well. Refrigerator temp no lower than 48 degrees.
I removed the panel inside the refer box to expose the evaporator.
Evap was frozen up. The evap fan works fine.
There are two thermistors (yellow wire sensors). One attached to the bottom of the evap, the other in the panel I removed to get to the evap. I checked resistance of each. One was 4.7k ohms, the other 5.0k ohms.
There is a plug with red/black wires. This goes to something that looks sort of like a cylinder with a cone on top. It is sealed in clear plastic and wrapped in soft foam.
There is another plug with red/white wires. This goes to the evap heater and drain tray heater. Evap heater reads 113 ohms. Drain tray heater reads 340 ohms.
Anyone have any ideas as to what is going on? I really need some help! Perform the troubleshooting as described in the attached file. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Samsung RB215LABP REF - BOTTOM MOUNTS | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Hey Gene, or anyone out there...
I too am having the fridge warm (Almost 60 degrees F) and the freezer is fine.
I have read over a lot of this information, and I have not as of yet had a chance to dig into my fridge too much. I dont notice any amount of ice at least on initial visual inspection. In the fresh food side, there is zero airflow from the vents. It seems like I hear the fan running constantly.
I looked over the parts list for my fridge, I didnt see a damper unit, am I missing something?
Any commonly known issues for this fridge? Suggestions?
Kitchen Aid KSRS25CNWH00
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