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Dick,
Thank you for the link to the tub rebuild. I think I will go through this entire process next month. Today I "rebuilt" the drive clutch and the machine is on it's 3rd load already without any hic-ups. After reviewing your link above, I also saw the rust lines from the weep holes and suspect a tub seal that is worn or heat hardened from use. I want to do the re-seal job prior to any bearing damage. Currently the machine is quiet and now that the drive clutch is operating properly, I am getting top spin RPM again. Oddly most folks are reporting some type of service problem in the 4 to 6 year time zone. My washer just had it's 6th birthday. I will definity be in contact next month for part numbers and latest information you may have run across for repairing these units. Thanks again for the great service advise you provide. Dave
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Rank: Member
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Unit is a FAV6800AWW Serial # 16
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Dick - Do you have any information I can read or preview prior to the washer tub teardown? Are you folks able to get on line and print or "see" a repair manual for this unit? Thanks - Dave
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Hey Dave, For the Service Manual I won’t post direct links but Google the SM document number 16022808 Revision 0 December 2003 and you will find. There is a DIY site you can join to get the SM but that is not necessary. Did your Clutch Pulley use the Upper Bearing ring? For Tub Seal replacement see this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacementWhen you replace the Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring make sure you remove the sleeve I describe in this thread FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement post #3 Dick
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Hello Dick - This is the first washer I have ever worked on. I think the clutch in my series unit only has the one bearing and the sprag unit. both look like bearings, put the piece in the white housing acts just like an automatic transmission sprag in a car trans. I will read the other posts you provided. Thanks for the support - Dave
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Hey Dave,Just a couple of thoughts and I’ll stop chewing up server hard disk clusters; My FAV6800A a Series 16 started with the dry One-Way Roller Clutches and the well known DC/UC unbalance errors at the 3.5 yr mark of service life. I don't remember cycle count but I believe around 1800 wash cycles. You can check your count in Service Mode see the SM for details.If you have no bearing noise and you can rotate the wash basket by hand CCW as fast as you can and have it coast down several revolutions to a gentle stop then I would feel you are good to go. The gents I worked with in the thread FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement felt that it was best to replace the Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings. It’s an individual owner call during tear down. Everyone’s situation is different. All parts are called out in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement thread.Down the road if you decide to punch out the Outer Tub bearings and if your Series 16 machine does not use the Upper One-Way bearing ring your Outer Tub bearing rebuild will require a few additional steps. I don’t know what Maytag was thinking when they moved the functionality of that upper Bearing ring to the integrated Lower Outer Tub Bearing. Try to find that bearing assembly anywhere on the face of the planet. On other forums most repair folks recommend a complete Outer Tub replacement a $400+. What sense does that make when a pair of 6207-2RS bearings can be had for under $20 delivered to the house. Some owners have had extended warranty repairs for the issue by service companies replacing the whole Outer Tub for Clutch issues??? I guess when cost is no object that is the way to go.Another possibility to get a replacement set of Outer Tub bearings is to do what this forum member did…… Quote from this thread Maytag Neptune load unbalance. Perma link #53 “”I called Maytag, asked them to send a replacement as I was going to fix it myself. It arrived today w/ bearings and tub seal pre-installed. I tore down the machine and reassembled w/ the new tub. However, the bottom of the new tub that accepts to the flanges on the clutch was redesigned and the clutch didn't set right. Fortuneately, I had purchased bearings, tub seal and tranny seal just in case the new tub didn't work. I ended up rebuilding the old tub. So far so good.””I feel this forum member just needed discard his original Upper Bearing ring and he would have been good to go with his free replacement Outer Tub. Again that Upper Bearing ring One-Way roller clutches bearing functionality was moved/integrated into the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly in the new (downgrade….:)) Maytag Outer Tub redesign. Good Luck with you project and if I or anyone can help just shout out…………Dick
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Dick- Is it your opinion that the little bit of seal speepage I am seeing is normal wear and tear? I gather from your last post that the clutch is all that needed servicing at the moment. The tub and bearings currently coast to a stop like a new machine would. I am unsure if I need to replace the tub seal at this point to protect the bearings from water intrusion. I don't mind doing the work, but at the same time am not interested in performing unneeded repairs. I guess the best path forward is to run the machine and see if any water drips down into the clutch housing. Your thoughts? Dave
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“”Dick- Is it your opinion that the little bit of seal speepage I am seeing is normal wear and tear?””Dave how bad was the rust on the One-Way roller clutches bearing? How much rust on what I call the Spinner Shaft Coupler?If there was just a slight hint of rust you may be good for a while. I assume you basically did what I call Clutch Maintenance to get back in service is that correct? If so check in 4 months and see if you have signs of a Tub Seal leak with Clutch Pulley inspection. I would like to know the cycle count on your machine. You can check that in Service Mode. The Tub Seal design in these machines to me seems to be weak in design but I over design in all my projects. Ill attach some pics of my Series 10 machine Outer Tub rebuild Clutch Pulley clean up. It was a local purchase as my Series 17 machine. You will see that there was a slight amount of rust and the machine was suffering from DC/UC unbalance errors. Clutch maintenance got it back in service. The Outer Tub rebuild was just for my enjoyment (yea right) and to gain experience. The Cycle count was 2996 on this $40 machine so it had some use but the bearings were in good shape with slight indication of moisture to the Clutch assembly.I own a series 16 and 17 like yours that has the redesigned Outer Tub that does not use the Upper Bearing ring. A bearing replacement on FAV6800A and FAV9800A of that Outer Tub design use an integrated bearing assembly for the Lower Outer Tub bearing and a standard 6207-2RS type for the upper Outer Tub bearing. The work around is to use standard 6207-2RS bearings for the upper and the lower Outer Tub bearing. The Lower Outer Tub bearing needs shims to be added to make up for bearing thickness so that the Spinner Support nut can be properly torqued down on reassembly.I have only changed out Outer Tub bearings on my 3rd FAV6800A Series 10 machine but have helped from a distance like in this thread Where are the bearings?It is difficult for me at times supporting owners without pics. This forum member has the same set up as you (and me for my Series 16 and 17 machines) the new designed Outer Tub that uses the integrated Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly which is a split bearing assembly. That bearing assembly is part standard Ball Bearing such as a 6207-2RS type and the other section contains a One-Way roller clutch bearing assembly as see in the pics in this thread. I'm not sure what Maytag R&D had in mind with their decision of the Outer Tub bearing redesign. Just try to find that bearing assembly…..maybe somewhere in China. Anyway your Outer Tub can be rebuilt using standard 6207-2RS bearings down the road if you decide to keep your machine. I would rebuild the outer tub in a heartbeat. $1K machine original investment and rebuild of the Outer tub for around $50 or less in parts…..no brainer for me but it’s an owner call. 1st three Pic’s from my Series 10 machine Clutch Pulley before clean up and the last pic's is same all cleaned up.dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Dick- I was able to locate the S/M on the web, thanks! I will read how to retrieve the cycle count and report back to you. Your pics were so close to what my washer parts looked like, I thought they were mine for a second. The only difference was the black housing on my unit had less "powder" (debris) compared to your pic. There was no rust on either drive shaft and no water marks on the washer base plate. The black housing did have enough water in it to dampen one sheet of a paper towel as a point of reference. I agree with your thoughts on a total unit rebuild, I can overhaul the entire unit for less than half the cost of a new washer and then I know what I have as far as service life goes. I am curious about the bearing shims, do you make them or buy them (and where)? How much clearance must be taken up on a retrofit bearing pack install? Thanks, Dave
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Rank: Member
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Dick- I read the provided link and see one fellow used door knob shims. I will go to Lowes tomorrow and get the diameter and thickness of one of these door knob pieces and see if i can find something from the automotive field that would be a cleaner and easier find, like say some transmission or rear axle shim packs. I do admire the above fellow's resoursefulness. Dave
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