Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 24
|
Freezer temp will not go down less that 17 degrees. Slow ice maker operation results. Soft ice cream
Temp will not go down any further after adjusting controls. Condenser clean, all fans fine, defrost cycle works, no freezer frost - evaporator no ice at all.
Runs all time except for when defrost cycle kicks in.
Low on gas? What type? suction line pressure at 78 degrees ambient?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
|
Fact: Refrain from putting gauges on a system until you have checked everything else out. Proper voltage, amperage, evaporator coils free of ice. condenser coils absolutely clean. Only then install gauges.
Then check system "Superheat" by measuring suction line temperature taken six inches away from compressor and low side pressure (this is an R-134a unit). subtract. You should have 9*F.
Example: Low side pressure = 8 psig
Suction line temperature = 12* F.
Using a pressure temperature chart convert suction pressure to saturation temperature. Subtract saturation temperature from suction temperature, the results is "Superheat" In this case saturation temperature is 3* F.
Suction line temperature (12* F. ) minus saturation temperature (3* F.)
equals 9* F. :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 24
|
Hi Icehouse,
My condenser coil is immaculate and both the fans work properly. I have measured my AC voltage and I have a nominal 123.7. With the refrigerator running in its normal cycle it is pulling only .9 to 1 amp! I attempted to get a temp reading at six inches from the compressor but was not successful with the digital thermometer I have. But I can tell you that the temp is no 12 degrees fahrenheit or anything close . I have worked on car AC's and know what the ideal air output of 43 degrees is like and this is no where close !!!!!!!Went way past the six inches and suction is a tad cooler but that is it. I tried my sniffer at the solder joint between the compressor and condensor - negative. If there is a leak it has to be on the low side because by now it should basically have nada in there. But I do not think there is a leak because it has always worked like this from the day I got it. Never had a hassle with the ice maker so I never took temp readings.
Also noticed that unit was manufactured and filled on 3/31/04. This unit carries a 5 year warranty on sealed system; is a leak or underfill of R134 covered under the warranty? Will be checking with Maytag tomorrow.
Thanks for your feedback. What do you think
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
|
Originally Posted by: Richmaytag  Hi Icehouse,
My condenser coil is immaculate and both the fans work properly. I have measured my AC voltage and I have a nominal 123.7. With the refrigerator running in its normal cycle it is pulling only .9 to 1 amp! I attempted to get a temp reading at six inches from the compressor but was not successful with the digital thermometer I have. But I can tell you that the temp is no 12 degrees fahrenheit or anything close . I have worked on car AC's and know what the ideal air output of 43 degrees is like and this is no where close !!!!!!!Went way past the six inches and suction is a tad cooler but that is it. I tried my sniffer at the solder joint between the compressor and condensor - negative. If there is a leak it has to be on the low side because by now it should basically have nada in there. But I do not think there is a leak because it has always worked like this from the day I got it. Never had a hassle with the ice maker so I never took temp readings.
Also noticed that unit was manufactured and filled on 3/31/04. This unit carries a 5 year warranty on sealed system; is a leak or underfill of R134 covered under the warranty? Will be checking with Maytag tomorrow.
Thanks for your feedback. What do you think Sealed system is covered under warranty. :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 24
|
Thanks for the warranty info. So U agree that based on the parameters I cited that I am low on refrigerant?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
|
Originally Posted by: Richmaytag Thanks for the warranty info. So U agree that based on the parameters I cited that I am low on refrigerant? Partially frosted coils, low amperage draw leads one in that direction.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 24
|
Hi Iceman,
Repair person here today and it appears he agrees with our diagnosis regarding the problem being in the sealed cooling system. He is going to return and wants to replace the drier. Is he on the right track? Could it be the compressor? If so, wouldn't it be smart for him to bring along a compressor in case his drier "fix" does not do the trick?
I not only noticed the low amperage draw but also noticed that when you unplug the unit and then plug it back in, the compressor kicks in right away and does not wait for the pressures to equalize so it can start. I still think it is a low gas situation.
What do U think? Incidently , I use to live in Huntington Sta.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
|
Originally Posted by: Richmaytag Hi Iceman,
Repair person here today and it appears he agrees with our diagnosis regarding the problem being in the sealed cooling system. He is going to return and wants to replace the drier. Is he on the right track? Could it be the compressor? If so, wouldn't it be smart for him to bring along a compressor in case his drier "fix" does not do the trick?
I not only noticed the low amperage draw but also noticed that when you unplug the unit and then plug it back in, the compressor kicks in right away and does not wait for the pressures to equalize so it can start. I still think it is a low gas situation.
What do U think? Incidently , I use to live in Huntington Sta.
Thanks Iceman was in "Another 48 Hours", I'm Icehouse and if it started that rapidly there is a leak. Ask him if he is using the drier with the dye pellet, and UV light. :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
|
Where are you now if you don't mind.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 24
|
Moved to Port St Lucie, Florida in 2004 - just in time for the two big hurricanes that hit!!!!!!!!!! Got "initiated" fast, real fast!
No idea what you are talking about regarding using drier with dye pellet and UV light but I will ask the dude. Have a gut feeling that the dude will give me a real nice blank stare. Folks down here are very, very nice but the real natives are a tad light between the ears. Thank god there are enough Yank "immigrants" down here for a little mental stimulation.
Reason why I do not think it is a clogged drier is that,( I may be wrong and if so please tell me why), is that my logic tells me that that situation would restrict the flow of refrigerant into the high pressure side of the circuit more, further increase the pressure and make it almost impossible for the compressor to ever start until the pressures equalized over time. For the compressor to start immediately tells me that there is practically no restiction whatsoever on the high pressure side.
Teach me, man, I am willing to learn!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Rich H
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
