Originally Posted by: Dan54 
Hi All,
Been reading most of the threads that had replies which matched the description of the problem I'm having. About two weeks ago the icemaker just stopped making ice. I noticed that the water at the inlet which feeds the IM was frozen.
I removed the IM from the freezer and removed the ice, I also took the IM apart (maybe not a good idea but already done) and put it back together. I replaced the IM into the freezer and heard the icemaker fill with water also verified that it was filled. After checking on the IM from time to time I noticed that the ice ejector was not moving.
I removed the IM again and tested for voltage at both the "N" and "L" test ports and at the harness, black and white, black and green. At both places I got 34 volts.
With the freezer door open and the IM "on", the led blinks twice then pauses then repeats the sequence, when I hold down the small flap it glows steady, when I depress the freezer compartment light switch it goes out. The led blinks twice then pauses and repeats the sequence even when the IM is "off".
I currently have the IM out of the freezer. Any recommendations would be appreciated?
Thanks,
Dan
Dan,
Sounds like you have several possible problems,
But nothing you can't solve or overcome.
The frozen fill tube to the icemaker,
As long as there were no abnormal conditions, and the ice maker is not malfunctioning, a frozen fill tube is usually due to a seeping fill valve.
Hopefully, there's no damage to the ice maker, If you took your time and put it back together, there's probably nothing wrong with it.
It sounds like you have a multi meter, so,
You may want to test the ice maker mold heater resistance.
Check for 50 to 75 ohms from L to H in the test openings on the control module, to test the mold heater.
You'll need to cool the ice maker down,(put it back in the freezer for a few hours) and check from T to H openings on the module, that should be a closed circuit below 17 dgrs F. and an open circuit above 32 dgrs F.
You also seem to have a problem in the infra red system,
The blinking pattern and 34 VAC to the ice maker.
Open the freezer door, observe the the status light
2 pulses followed by a 1 second delay (repeated)
a) indicates the flapper is stuck and blocking the I/R beam.
b) faulty optics
wait at least 1 minute with the door closed
Open the freezer door, press and hold down on the flapper, observe the status light
2 pulses follwed by a 1 second delay (repeated)
a) indicates the optics are faulty
b) LED on solid, indicates that the optics are working correctly.
You can't get an accurate voltage reading from the optic board to the ice maker wire harness, the room light interferes with the I/R beam, but I have never had that low a voltage reading.
A lot of technicians remove the reciever board assembly(on the right side wall) disconnect the wire harness from the board and use a small wire jumper(paper clip) and insert the jumper on pin 3(black) and pin 4 (black / white stripe) that bypasses the reciever board and you should read 120 VAC from blach to white on the harness or L to N on the test openings on the ice maker control module.
If you get the proper voltage at L to N on the control module, you can be 98% sure, you've giot a bad, or intermittent circuit on the I/R system and will need the board kit.
Good Luck,
:) :) :)
