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Through the use of this forum I was able to run the tests, diagnose the problem, order the control module from APP. After receiving the part very quickly, I realized that I needed a little more help in getting to the control module. I resisted the "don't force it, get a bigger hammer" approach and pieced together from several posts that there were two screws on the side which held the upper panel in place. I don't now know whether I needed to remove the whole door panel - I did - but I'm guessing that I could have just removed the upper panel. Either way, the repair was the proverbial "piece-o-cake" and my 10 year Bosch is running like a new one.
This is the second control module in 10 years. The first time I called the Bosch folks who charged me about $100 just to drive to the boonies, $200+ for the unit, plus $100 labor to install. This time $150 including sales tax and shipping. Woohoo y'all! :D
Many thanks to all of you who posted here and blazed the trail and many thanks to the fine folks at APP for your outstanding service.
Gary in Tennessee
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Hey all I found a article about this issue that explains what is wrong and gives a part number for some models. Click on the link below. Bosch DW 2H
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Rank: Member
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Hello I found article that will help, this website has tons of bosch DW repair help. Click here
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I have a SHE56C06UC with the same problem. Due to this forum, I was able to remove and resolder the control board. Thanks to all who contributed the information to make this repair possible. :)
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Unfortunately, my repair only lasted for a about a week. I may not be the best at soldering, so maybe a better joint would have lasted longer. The truth is the burned joint is only a symptom. I had the relay upgraded by MrMark52. I was only down for a few days and repair cost less than ¼ that of a new board. I'm up and running again. Way to go Mark! :-)
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I was having the same problem with my Bosch SHU43C05/43. It would run forever with 1 left on the timer. Inside was not particularly hot when opened at the end of the cycle. Some remaining water in the bottom of the dishwasher.
After searching the internet, finding this and a few other boards describing the problem, I checked the impeller blade and ensured no blockage in the drain hose, ran the diagnostic program (result:heater issue).
I saw MrMark52's post above. It appealed to me to replace the relay with a better one, rather than soldering the old one or a new board with the under-rated relay.
I was able to get the old board out myself and had MrMark52 replace the relay. I got it back promptly and reinstalled it without a hitch. The result: dishwasher is working great and I saved some money over a new board. Hopefully, this will outlast a new board with the under-rated relay. Thanks, MrMark52.
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I have a similar problem except when I press the Scrub wash and Economy buttons it doesn't reset the control but it starts the Scrub wash from 69 mins instead. None of my other modes or even delay wash buttons seem to work. Does this mean I need to replace the control module. Also do I need to buy any other parts other than the control module like the control front cover etc? Also the water gets clogged at the base so I'm wondering if I need to clean out the filters below to take care of that? Originally Posted by: tbirkland  My model SHU6805UC had the control module replaced 4 years ago and the unit is now almost 10 years old. Now the 2H message appears and the unit takes several hours to get down to 1 and just stalls with water and soap in the bottom of the tub. Pushing "Scrub Wash & Delicate Economy" will make it drain and display CL. This unit cost close to $1,000 new, wondering if I should fix it or just buy a new unit? If I can fix it by installing a $150 part great.
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Rank: Member
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Great site! Ordered the control module and everything worked again.
Putting the bottom door panel back on seemed to be the hardest part!
Removing the top and bottom fascia was straightforward...
the plastic door spacers do drop out when you take the bottom panel out...no worries they just slide over the top screw hinge with the forks facing inward. Mark all wire plug in connectors with a sharpie...I went left to right and had 1-8 (the little red jumper was last).
The plastic control module fit perfectly with the plastic tabs snapping in (they are just shoulder tabs that hook under the galvanized front plate. A small flat screwdriver will help push the tabs in or out for that matter, just look at the control module plastic housing that just came out...snap!
Putting everything back was easy. Just hold door slightly ajar and secure the top fascia with new control module then get a can of patience to lineup the tabs of the bottom panel with the galvanized top front plate. A little luck or else slightly bend the galvanized front plate tabs inwards to allow the stainless male tabs go back in.
It is a hold bottom panel slightly out just to clear the plastic door spacers and push up motion to fit the bottom panel.
Hold the bottom panel then open the door and finish screwing in the torx screws.
Good washer with just enough info to fix from this site.
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Rank: Member
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Just a note of thanks:
I've been futzing with my Bosch SHU5315 for more than two years now, making do with the 2H problem, rewashing, re-rinsing, cursing, etc. I called a repair guy who told me it would cost $450 to do the job. That gave me the courage -- finally -- to take off the #!&@(* front panel and just re-solder the fried relay, like so many people have done.
Holy crap, it worked! After completing a test, the water ran through piping hot again and it cycled as advertised. My wife was utterly astonished, and I must say, I felt like a superhero. Yes, it will probably break down again, but by gum, I'm here to tell you, it's not that difficult to fix -- and it's very satisfying to do it yourself.
My deepest thanks to all the troubleshooters and public-spirited people who share their information and expertise on this forum.
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