New here. Daughters big side by side Samsung has freezer section that is room temp. Bottom of the freezer side is frosted, with the top frreezers I am familiar with, defrost tube would be suspect. This damned thing, the back bottom wall is frosted, the shell is one piece, I can't believe you got to pull that thing to check or replace a heater. No schematic, do I have an option to pull something off the back of the unit to replace the heater or at least to check it out? Hell of it is, the refrig side seems to be working. Samsung gives you just the install manual as download. No fix it manual. Thanks, George

liberty,

I'm sorry, I don't know how that "less than 1 year old" got in the header. It's probably 5 years old.

I haven't pulled it away from the wall yet to see if there is an access.

My kid says there is a 150 base house call charge from whoever she called. Needless to say she can't afford that, plus actual work and parts. I'd rather not pay that myself.

I have repaired my own and family member's top freezers, when I had to, but I am NOT an app repairman. Metalworking machine repairman in my working life.

Thanks,

George
edit: Model No. RS2577BB

liberty,

I found a manual for a RS257B*** on another forum.

I only looked inside her freezer for a moment, and don't really remember, but the inside looked way different than the pics in the manual. Have to look at it again tomorrow.

66 pages and over half of it is a series of flow charts and electronics measurements.

Reset and test procedures might help, after thawing the freezer evaporator.

Hope I can report that it is working. Read that you can "carefully" remove the heater from a new evap to replace the old without desoldering and replacing that, although the new evap is about 85 bucks.

Thanks,

George

A couple things you should know about that refer.

1. The evap fan has a switch at lower door frame. Open door clothes switch listen for fan.
2. No defrost t-stat. It uses a thermistor (fz sensor on diagram). It has two yellow wires. This is a common issue. I can't remember the resistance but I think it is <37000 (or it could be <78000?)
3. The refer is cooling ok because that refer has two evaps, one compressor controls both evaps with a deverter valve.
4. there is a main board in the compressor compartment. You can ohm out everything there. The board components are well marked.
5. Its best to defrost freezer if possible before removing back wall. There is styrofoam behind the plastic that likes to break when frozen.
6. It is easy to remove the heater from the new evap (if thats the problem. It should read open resistance) and use the heater w/o the new evap. Use gloves I swear they sharpen that metal.

Don't quote me on that sensor resistance (my memory causes as many problems as it solves). If the heater reads closed and the fan is working replaced that sensor.

I hope this helps. I haven't worked on one of those since Maytag went under. Wow, almost 2yrs gone by!

fixtec,

Thanks for your reply. Got time this evening to go look at it.

Found the freezer evap and the inside of the compartment totally frozen up.

Pressed Freezer/Fridge buttons to do test and shows bottom segment right digit lit. Book says fan not operating. Press and hold door switch, no fan sound.

Thawed the unit as best I could with hair dryer. Still no fan. Went to appliance parts store, attendant is also tech, asked his advice, he thinks also that fan is problem so ordered one for 56 bucks, not really all that much.

He also says icing could have stopped the fan, but if it did, low voltage so may not have damaged fan or anything else.

I know, g'kids again, who left my basement upright freezer door ajar, it was packed full of frost overnight. I don't think that happened here. Has a dinger for door ajar, and in the kitchen, would have annoyed them enough to hunt that dinging down.

Friday fan is supposed to be here, will tear it down and check voltages and resistances before I replace the fan.

Thanks for your interest and participation.

Cheers,

George