Isomc,

I presume this is the upper oven ?

Either way,

The F2 and the F5 code, indicate a problem in the oven temperature sensor

Part number: AP4009009

Isomc,

The F5 error code indicates:

"Power to the element relays disabled in cook mode.

Components to check:
1) Intermittent sensor or wire harness connection
2) Intermittent contact on PRB(power relay board).

Now you need to do a "live" voltage test at the relays on the PRB.
and check the hi limit switch on the exhaust tube.

At the relay board, with power on,

Check the Black wire L1 to chassis ground for 120 VAC( the L1 terminal is on the front of the PRB, closest to you).

Check the double Red wires to chassis ground for 120 VAC (the L2 terminal is located on the back of the PRB.

Check L1 Black to double Red L2, for 240 VAC.

Any low or missing voltage indicates a bad wire from the terminal block, on the back of the oven, or improper power supply to the unit.

On the exhaust tubes, you'll find hi limit switches mounted on the tubes,
Check both switches,

Black wire to chassis ground should have 120 VAC,
Orange wire to chassis ground should have 120 VAC.

Any missing voltage on the orange wire would indicate an oprn hi limit switch,
Any missing voltage on the black wire would indicate a bad wire or power supply to the unit.

With a bake cycle and temperature selected,

Check the Yellow wire(bake)terminal, on the back side, on the PRB for 120 VAC to chassis ground.
Missing voltage would indicate a bad bake relay(it didn't close) or a power supply problem to the oven.

With a broil cycle and temperature selected,

Check the Purple wire(broil)terminal, on the back upper portion of the PRB for 120 VAC to chassis ground.
Missing voltage would indicate a bad broil relay, or a power supply problem to the oven.

I'm sure you have double checked all of your connections to the ERC and relay board.

I'm sure you'll have it figured out after this check.

:) :) :)

Isomc,

You are correct, I apologize, got my diagrams mixxed up, your hilimit switch is mounted to the bottom of the compartment.

As for voltage checks vs resistance/continuity checks,

You can read continuity through wires and some components, because they are not under a "load" and evrything is "static".

However, when the component is under a "load"(voltage passing through it)"active", if there is a problem with a loose wire or a damaged contact,etc. the voltage will not flow,and you won't read 120 VAC to or through the component, because it is damaged, and the rest of the circuit is "dead", has no 120 VAC, and won't work.

It is a slightly more dangerous process, due to possible shock hazards, but it is the most accurate way to test components and wiring.


:) :) :)

OK,

So now that I know you have L1 voltage, through the hi limit and the elements, and the wiring to the relays on the PRB, everything there is OK.

Now disconnect the yellow and purple wires from the board, and check the empty terminals on the board to chassis ground for 120 VAC.

If you have 120 VAC, disconnect the touchpad ribbon, and re check for the 120 VAC, you may have a bad touchpad, but I would expect a F7 error code.

If you have 0 volts, program the ERC in a bake and broil mode and check for the 120 VAC , on the terminals or the PRB. If you have the voltage(s), that will tell us, you have L2 power to the the element(s), you have the 20 VAC through the ERC, and your touchpad assembly is completing the program circuit,and the relays are closing and the PRB is OK.

If all checks and readings are proper,

You'll need to remove the bake element enough to access the wiring/element terminals, program a bake cycle, and check for 240 VAC across the terminals,

0 volts, would indicate a loss of power on both L1&L2, a wiring problem to the unit(in the house wiring).

120 VAC would indicate a loss of one power leg under a load(either house or unit wiring).

As for the temperature sensor, everything there sounds fine, and should not be a problem, you may want to check for a resistance reading from each wire in the harness to chassis ground in case you have frayed or shorted insulation or wire to the chassis, but that would be a last resort.

:) :) :)

Isomc,

We had the correct readings when we first started this diagnosis.

With the yellow and purple wires disconnected from the relay board terminals, and power supplied to the oven, you should read 120 VAC from the wire tips to chassis ground.

Do we not have that now ?

I'm wonderring if we have a broken or loose wire in the back of the cabinet, based on the voltage readings and the discoloration, you mentioned.

I've been trying to avoid removing the unit from the cabinet, but I'm thinking we may have to.

:confused: :confused: :confused: