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Every time when you do the continuity test, the wires should be disconnected. The microwave MUST be unplugged.
I would just replace the switches. Especially because the substituted switch is absolutely inexpensive. This switch has three terminals compare to the OEM switch which has just two. You have to carefully break off the terminal marked NC.
Gene.
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Which switch should I order? Ray Originally Posted by: Gene Every time when you do the continuity test, the wires should be disconnected. The microwave MUST be unplugged.
I would just replace the switches. Especially because the substituted switch is absolutely inexpensive. This switch has three terminals compare to the OEM switch which has just two. You have to carefully break off the terminal marked NC.
Gene.
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Which switch should I buy?
Ray
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I replaced the switch. The symptoms are the same. Nothing works. What next? Ray Originally Posted by: Gene
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If you have the schematic for the microwave, can you post it here?
Gene.
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See if this attachment helps. Ray Originally Posted by: raylamm05 I replaced the switch. The symptoms are the same. Nothing works. What next? Ray raylamm05 attached the following image(s):
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According to the diagram, the secondary interlock switch in this model is the bottom switch. So if you replaced only the upper switch, replace the bottom switch too.
Gene.
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I replaced the bottom switch only. Ray Originally Posted by: Gene According to the diagram, the secondary interlock switch in this model is the bottom switch. So if you replaced only the upper switch, replace the bottom switch too.
Gene.
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Ray, Looks like the problem is a bad power relay on the control board. - The control board Part number: AP3205428
Gene.
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