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boxpin  
#51 Posted : Sunday, December 12, 2010 7:14:33 PM(UTC)
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So I have followed the advice on this forum and replaced the heater coil. The sad part is that I checked the two coils with an ohm meter and the both are identical meaning it wasnt broken. :-(
I just decided to put the new one in but sadly and expected I am still freezing up. Whats next? thermistor?

Does anyone know where I can view a SERVICE manual? (Not the users guide. I have found that a couple times searching.)

I have caught wind that there might be the ability to tell the fridge to run a defrost cycle....is this true and how?

Samsung RS2577BB
denman  
#52 Posted : Monday, December 13, 2010 12:58:52 AM(UTC)
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boxpin

Here is the breakdown
Replacement parts for Samsung RS2577BB REF - SXS | AppliancePartsPros.com

This should help force a defrost
SAM0058 Samsung Sidy-By-Side Refrigerator Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You may have to join the site to download the file but it is free and a good site to belong to for a DIYer
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
boxpin  
#53 Posted : Monday, December 13, 2010 7:58:26 PM(UTC)
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WOW THAT HELPED!!!!

The service manual answered all my questions. I was able to put the fridge into defrost mode and it thawed. It also gave me the code saying the Thermistor was giving a wrong reading. Parts are ordered. Nice!
ddagsyn  
#54 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 5:42:42 PM(UTC)
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Denman,
Do you have the repair manual for the Samsung RS2630. If so can you please post.
thanks
boxpin  
#55 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 6:18:41 PM(UTC)
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Thermister has fixed the fridge. Nice cold milk and an Oreo...what could be better.
denman  
#56 Posted : Wednesday, January 5, 2011 1:43:45 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"]ddagsyn[/COLOR]

Sorry but I do not have it.

Perhaps open your own thread using "Post New Topic" at the top of this section and someone else may have it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
ddagsyn  
#57 Posted : Thursday, January 6, 2011 4:26:14 AM(UTC)
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http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...cs/SAM0096.pdf

The above is the service manual I am looking for. The link is dead hopefully some one has a copy. thanks
pyro-1955  
#58 Posted : Monday, February 28, 2011 8:57:04 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: raventor Go to Quoted Post
I have the EXACT situation as you, have you had any luck figuring this out? i have already spent over 400 for repairs that didn't work


I also had the exact same problem. I purchased the Evaporator Coil / Defroster unit, as that is the only way they sell it. I defrosted the Refridgerator again with the hair dryer, then I replaced Both the Part that clamps onto the coil where it comes into the refridgerator compartment, and the one that goes along the side of the Evaporator coil . Defroster coil. I also carefully removed the existing defroster coil from the existing evaporator, and did the same with the New one. I then installed the New Defroster Coil onto the existing Evaporator coil, eliminating the need for removing the coolant and cutting coils, soldering, re-charging the compressor etc... It's working like a champ again. The part was around $75.00 delivered, but it's fixed, and I didn't have to pay Hundreds to get it fixed.

I did notice that when I initially re-started the refridgerator after installing the new parts, it came on, with the Error Code #3, however, once the refridgerator got up to or should I say down to normal working temperatures, I can now Unplug the refridgerator, then plug it back in, and it comes back on without any need to press and hold the Two buttons on the control panel, apparently it needs to register a normal setting before it can operate on it's own? I don't know, but all is good. This is the best fix I could find. Someone should Make this a default fix for these refridgerators.
rudeone43  
#59 Posted : Thursday, May 5, 2011 1:47:57 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here is another service manual which looks more relevant
http://www.servicematters.com/m...library/docs/SAM0059.pdf

Your first link looks like the tube with the wires coming out of it is the defrost heater. Could not find a spec for it but is probably around 30 ohms.

The manual does show a thermal fuse in the evap area. This should be 0 ohms.

Also shows a thermistor, the resistance should change with temperature, see the table in the manual.

You will need a meter.
If you do not have one, I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

woodchuckie
Hopefully the heater is OK. I also would be looking at a jiggery pokery if it was blown. Perhaps a length of pipe heating cable would work here depending on the wattage.


Would like to follow your lead on this but having trouble removing the panel any help would be greatly appreciated have melted ice and removed screws pulled the bottom out about half way up and then cracked a piece. any tricks are just keep working it back and forth?
oltunde  
#60 Posted : Friday, October 7, 2011 5:10:05 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: woodchuckie Go to Quoted Post
I have heard of that before. If it was mine and it went bad(which we don't know in this case yet) I would get a heater and rig it up with another one and place it like regular manufacturers do.



God you are my angel, I have this problem and it cost me about 400 to replce the unit. do you know of any heater I can buy and RIG it in:confused:

The resistance of the heater in the evaporator assembly is 103 ohms, 140 watts, and 120 volts AC.

many many thanks
Olga
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