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wolf05  
#31 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 12:44:29 AM(UTC)
wolf05

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Originally Posted by: woodchuckie Go to Quoted Post
I have heard of that before. If it was mine and it went bad(which we don't know in this case yet) I would get a heater and rig it up with another one and place it like regular manufacturers do.


I think I figure out a cheap way to do this. Please let me know the danger because I cant see any.

First my problem: I have a samsung rs267lash and the heater is blown. As everyone now knows you have to replace the evaporator because the heater is part of it. Right?

Here is my solution: I noticed that with very little skill I can pry the heater out without damaging the evaporator. So the logical step is to buy a new evaporator pry its good heater out as well and put it in my fridge. Voila its fixed!!

Do you see any danger in this solution??

Please help.
woodchuckie  
#32 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 5:32:04 AM(UTC)
woodchuckie

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I don't see a danger with it. But just a couple of thoughts. You may can leave the original blown heater in not risking damage to the evaporator. Find one of the flexible heaters made for another unit and place it across the bottom and up the sides like some of the other units have it. You may have to change end connectors to make it work. This would save you the cost of a new evaporator you wouldn't even use.
wolf05  
#33 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 5:41:55 AM(UTC)
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Ok so couple of things regarding your suggestion.

(1) A really smart (no really I mean it) repair guy, who tried to fix my refrigerator told me that very same thing. But, later when I called him to actually try the solution out he said .. you know what I am afraid of fire hazard etc and don't want to risk it.

(2) If you still insist that your solution is correct can you post a URL of a heater that I could use to carry out your suggestion? Where do I buy it?

(3) If you know enough about my particular model -- RS267LASH -- could you tell me where I can buy the evaporator for it and what is the part number for it. I am going to mull whether I use another heater or just play it safe because a professional told me other wise. I would not mind playing it safe unless you give me a compelling reason to really only buy a heater that is designed for any generic fridge.

Many thanks for your help
wolf05  
#34 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 5:51:21 AM(UTC)
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And 1 more question, if you have actually worked with this refrigerator: The evaporator assembly is held down (attached to the refrigerator body) by 3 clamps. I could not figure out how to unscrew those tiny little things. Is there a special screwdriver for them?
woodchuckie  
#35 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 7:09:23 AM(UTC)
woodchuckie

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Diagram 3 part 11 is your evaporator. Replacement parts for MAYTAG RS267LASH | AppliancePartsPros.com

I'm just saying what I would try instead of replacing the evaporator and recharging the system that doing that would require. You'll have to decide which way you handle it.
wolf05  
#36 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 8:42:24 AM(UTC)
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Anyway the question I have now is how do I remove the clamps that hold the evaporator assembly to the body of the fridge. The head of the pin (or screw) on that clamp is small and has no groove for ANY screwdriver to fit on.

Help !!

Pleas notice : that the solution I am talking about is NOT REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR.

I have the bright idea of removing just the heater part , despite samsung's claim that the evaporator and heater are woven together. If one is only slightly careful this can be done.
jay1028  
#37 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 10:08:12 AM(UTC)
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wolf05,

I have the same fridge and have had similar problems, only my heater is ok and it has always been the motherboard that I have replaced. Look at this link where the evap assy was taken apart.
http://************************..._post.php?post_id=124543

Looks like the heater can be separated, but you have to buy an entire new evap coil assy to just get the heater. The other option is the flexible replacement defrost heater that you could tie to the evaporator with some stainless steel wire to hold it in place. I would water proof the electrical connections to the new heater with some kind of silicone from an auto parts store than can withstand high temperature and water.

The original heater reads 120 ohms and draws 1.2 amps when powered from 110v. In order not to over tax the defrost relay on the motherboard, you need to make sure your don't overload that relay whatever you decide.

Do a search on my name and you will see what I have been going through. For the time being, I have replaced the motherboard again and the unit is working now for over a week. I think that the power dropouts that are of a short duration are killing the motherboard. When the power drops out and comes back on and does it a few times in succession in a one minute time frame, the motherboard can't take it. Crummy electrical design, I have a 900 joule surge protector at the unit, so I don't think it is surges that are killing my board. The motherboard also has surge suppression on it also but who knows if it is any good.
wolf05  
#38 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 10:30:54 AM(UTC)
wolf05

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thanks for the help.

the url you posted has been obfuscated, can't really use it.
jay1028  
#39 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 12:31:31 PM(UTC)
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wolf05  
#40 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2009 12:34:30 PM(UTC)
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thanks. it worked
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