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Joined: 5/21/2010(UTC) Posts: 10
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Well, i got the control board for the fridge, installed it last night and fixed fixed the hot door frame.
Its a bit of a pain to pull the fridge out and install the part but looks like if you have a fridge with a hot door frame the controller board might just be what you are looking for
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 1
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My Kitchenaid refrigerator has exact same problem. Do you mind telling where you got the part? Thx!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/21/2010(UTC) Posts: 10
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**************************.com the best price around as well when shipping to Canada they use usps rather than ups ground ups ground is the only shipper that charges a customs broker fee on top of regular shipping look up your part number in the parts manual and call whirlpool parts to confirm the correct part number as they change with rew replacement parts
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Rank: Member
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You have been a member since:: 6/4/2010(UTC) Posts: 4
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So far so bad. Installed replacement motor, but it didn't budge although it should have (very hot compressor). Got repairman over who said motor is DOA. He said voltage is OK. Ordered a replacement, which came quickly from APP (thanks). Could not get the motor to run. Something else is going on. Repairman back 6/29... Ready to get my friend over with his 50-cal and put an end to this thing's miserable existence and our extreme annoyance having to run a fan pointed at the fridge to prevent a meltdown.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/21/2010(UTC) Posts: 10
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Have you. Personally put the volt meter to the fan connector? I suggest you do that to be 100% certAin you need 110- 120v out of the connector if 0v then controll board?? Did you do the diagnostic menu hold reset then press power button for 4 secs.?
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Rank: Member
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You have been a member since:: 6/4/2010(UTC) Posts: 4
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We got a replacement board in Tucson, I installed it (easy on my model), no dice. Repairman came with a helper (previous one had quit). It took them 5 min to discover bent pins in the connector on the new motor. They fixed them, no charge, and now the motor is running, door frame back to cool. I didn't need to replace the control board, but now we have a spare and we didn't need to spend on a new fridge. Anyone interested in a board?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 6
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Need help anyone have suggestions
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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4mation, start a new thread with your model # in the box.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 6
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I have a Ge refrigerator that does not cool I did a little investigating and found that the compressor was not running I checked the run and start windings and both checked out fine. I then jumped out the board from the line side J11 directly to the compressor J8 and the compressor ran fine. What sensor is the one that energizes the comp relay and is their anyway I can manually energize the relay from the board, or how can I check to see if the board is actually receiving the signal to energize the comp relay. I went ahead and ordered the board but before I opened it I wanted to ask you your opinion, if in fact it could be the board or if it can be any one of the thermistors and if so which one and how do I test thermistors. This fridge has 2 thermistors in freezer and 2 in cooler and I believe it has 1 T stat in the cooler also. Thanks in advance,
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Rare thermisters fail, just install the new board and follow the instructions with it.
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