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No Dryer Heat
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Model: LEN2000KQ1 Brand: Whirlpool Age: 1 - 5 years
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qiqiangzhu  
#51 Posted : Thursday, April 8, 2010 4:09:51 AM(UTC)
qiqiangzhu

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
It's on the left side bottom.


Gene.

Nice, I will have it tested first.

Thanks.
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qiqiangzhu  
#52 Posted : Thursday, April 8, 2010 6:59:52 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: qiqiangzhu Go to Quoted Post
Nice, I will have it tested first.

Thanks.

I've checked the themal fuse today, looks like it has continuity.

But I don't know how to check the thermostat continuity.

I checked the continuity between two red spots, they have continuity, but nothing between two purple ones.

How to check continuity on thermostat ?
qiqiangzhu attached the following image(s):
DSCN2822.jpg
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Gene  
#53 Posted : Friday, April 9, 2010 10:10:09 AM(UTC)
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Looks like the cycling thermostat is fine. Now you have to check the igniter, flame sensor and gas valve coils.

You picked up the wrong thread on the forum from the beginning. This thread describing troubleshooting for electric dryers. You can find the troubleshooting for gas dryers here: http://forum.appliancepartspros...3-no-heat-gas-dryer.html

Gene.
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lilteddyp  
#54 Posted : Tuesday, June 8, 2010 9:28:08 PM(UTC)
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Unfortunatly I am still having a no heat issue with my dryer after completing all the listed steps on all 6 pages. TWICE! Maybe I am doing something wrong, everything shows o ohms except the element which shows 10 ohms, but I read somewhere else that 10 ohms is acceptable. I will be calling around to repair shops tomorrow but would really like to get this taken care of myself. It is a used dryer that I picked up for 30 bucks, already ran the new wiring I need for it and don't want to have to redo all that work to go back to my old dinosaur of a dryer. Thanks in advance for help and I will be checking this constantly.

BTW: Whirlpool LER4434AQ0
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lilteddyp  
#55 Posted : Tuesday, June 8, 2010 10:11:32 PM(UTC)
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Reading more threads, could it be my M2/M1 motor's centrifugal switch? If so, how to I access that? Do I have to take the drum out? Should I check voltage at the thermostats and stuff while its running?

Thanks
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Gene  
#56 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 1:20:32 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: lilteddyp Go to Quoted Post
Reading more threads, could it be my M2/M1 motor's centrifugal switch? If so, how to I access that? Do I have to take the drum out? Should I check voltage at the thermostats and stuff while its running?

Thanks


Have you checked the voltage at the wall outlet? It suppose to be 120 VAC between each of the two hot wires and the neutral, and 240 VAC between the hot wires. The heating element needs 240 VAC while the motor needs only 120 VAC.

Gene.
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lilteddyp  
#57 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 10:14:00 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Have you checked the voltage at the wall outlet? It suppose to be 120 VAC between each of the two hot wires and the neutral, and 240 VAC between the hot wires. The heating element needs 240 VAC while the motor needs only 120 VAC.

Gene.


I have 120 on each side(I am assuming that would comine itself to 240) How would I check both sides combined? Use gator clips to both hots? I barely mess with 110vac and almost never 220vac (but I don't hesitate to jump on 12vdc!)
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Gene  
#58 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 10:16:39 PM(UTC)
Gene

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How did you measure 120 VAC? What kind of meter did you use?

Gene.
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lilteddyp  
#59 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 10:19:33 PM(UTC)
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lilteddyp  
#60 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 11:03:04 PM(UTC)
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Login to a private Photobucket.com album

Password: appliancepartspros

is a link to my photobucket with pictures of the back of the dryer and a video of my checking everything. The vid is dark due to lighting and my girlfriend isnt the best camerawoman.
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