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nguyeko  
#41 Posted : Friday, April 2, 2010 1:53:21 PM(UTC)
nguyeko

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Yes! Check the timer terminals between black and red wires as well. It has continuity. I replaced the thermastats because I ordered it thinking the thermastats was the issue. Anyway, the dryer runs w/ the drummer rolls but still no heat. What could be the problem if those were not the issue? The timer seems to work as well.

Korry-

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Korry,

Did you disconnect the wires from the parts before the continuity tests?

If your answer is "Yes", then check for continuity between the timer terminals BK (black) and R (red) while the timer is in any auto or timed dry position. The wires should be removed from those terminals.

Gene.
Gene  
#42 Posted : Monday, April 5, 2010 8:15:56 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: nguyeko Go to Quoted Post
Yes! Check the timer terminals between black and red wires as well. It has continuity. I replaced the thermastats because I ordered it thinking the thermastats was the issue. Anyway, the dryer runs w/ the drummer rolls but still no heat. What could be the problem if those were not the issue? The timer seems to work as well.

Korry-


Everything checks OK, but there is no heat... It can not be like that. Very likely something was wrong with the tests. You may want to start it from scratch.

Gene.
nguyeko  
#43 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 5:56:41 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Gene. It turned out the heating element is bad. There are 4 terminals in the vicinity. I was mistaken w/ the 2 other terminals. The heating element ONLY has one wire connected to its terminal. Anyway, after replaced the heating element, it works perfectly.Thanks again.

Korry-
qiqiangzhu  
#44 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 6:52:10 PM(UTC)
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Why you keep tell us check the voltage for 220v?

Mine is a Whirlpool gas dryer, model # CG2951XYW3. From the manual, it uses 110v.
Gene  
#45 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 7:14:46 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: nguyeko Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Gene. It turned out the heating element is bad. There are 4 terminals in the vicinity. I was mistaken w/ the 2 other terminals. The heating element ONLY has one wire connected to its terminal. Anyway, after replaced the heating element, it works perfectly.Thanks again.

Korry-


Korry,

I'm glad to hear you were able to fix it. Good job!

Thank you for the feedback.

Gene.
Gene  
#46 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 7:18:23 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: qiqiangzhu Go to Quoted Post
Why you keep tell us check the voltage for 220v?

Mine is a Whirlpool gas dryer, model # CG2951XYW3. From the manual, it uses 110v.


Did we tell you to check voltage for YOUR DRYER?

It should be done for electric dryers only.

What is wrong with your dryer?

Gene.
qiqiangzhu  
#47 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 7:21:02 PM(UTC)
qiqiangzhu

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Did we tell you to check voltage for YOUR DRYER?

It should be done for electric dryers only.

What is wrong with your dryer?

Gene.

No heat, sir.

The drum is turning normally though.

I will check continuity tomorrow and let you know the result.
qiqiangzhu attached the following image(s):
DSCN2821.jpg
DSCN2816.jpg
Gene  
#48 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 7:25:48 PM(UTC)
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The first part you may want to check is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram).

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL CG2951XYW3 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
qiqiangzhu  
#49 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 7:28:14 PM(UTC)
qiqiangzhu

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
The first part you may want to check is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram).

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL CG2951XYW3 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.


Where is it?

On the right side above or left side bottom?
File Attachment(s):
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Gene  
#50 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 11:27:57 PM(UTC)
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It's on the left side bottom.

The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867
Part number: AP3132867


Gene.
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