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Originally Posted by: Gene  Sounds like the problem with your dryer is very similar to the problem described in the RebelBs post. You also have to check for continuity the thermal fuse (#7 on the diagram) first. You have to have a simple ohmmeter to perform the troubleshooting. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867
Hello. To locate these parts on our dryer do we take off the back panel? What readings should our ohmmeter give if the part is working correctly? We understand that"If when testing the element, the meter shows OL, it means that the element is open. In Digital meter speak, OL (Open Line or Overload, depending on the function the meter is being used for) means the same thing." This means to replace the part, right? Other than that , how do we know what the reading number should be? Thank you for your help.
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I have a Maytag gas dryer model: MDG6200AWW. It will not shut off in Auto Mode. It heats and will dry the clothes but the timer will not advance. It operates perfectly in Timed Dry Mode. I was told it was an airflow problem because the cycling thermostat controls the timer rotation. So far I have:
-Cleaned and replaced the exhaust venting
-Checked the blower wheel
-Checked continuity on thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, hi limit thermostat, flame sensor, ignitor, and valve coils. Everything checked out ok.
Should the flame stay on for the entire drying cycle or will it cut on/off via the hi limit thermostat?
Could the timer itself be the problem?
I don't know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Originally Posted by: meano I have a Maytag gas dryer model: MDG6200AWW. It will not shut off in Auto Mode. It heats and will dry the clothes but the timer will not advance. It operates perfectly in Timed Dry Mode. I was told it was an airflow problem because the cycling thermostat controls the timer rotation. So far I have:
-Cleaned and replaced the exhaust venting
-Checked the blower wheel
-Checked continuity on thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, hi limit thermostat, flame sensor, ignitor, and valve coils. Everything checked out ok.
Should the flame stay on for the entire drying cycle or will it cut on/off via the hi limit thermostat?
Could the timer itself be the problem?
I don't know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Answered here: http://forum.appliancepartspros...s-forever-auto-mode.htmlGene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene According to the Wiring sheet, there are seven parts in the heating circuit besides the timer. They are: high limit thermostat (#15 on the diagram), thermal cut-off (#16), cycling thermostat (#8), thermal fuse (#6), flame sensor (#49), igniter (#4 on the diagram) and gas valve coils (#13 & #14). Have you checked for continuity all of them?The good test result for the cycling thermostat is continuity between the two large terminals. The two small terminals are for the bias heater and can not be tested with a meter. You can find how to test the gas valve coils in one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros...er-runs-but-no-heat.htmlHere are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TGDX640JQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.comGene. P.S. Have you verified the gas coming to the dryer? My dryer is similar...Estate Model TGDS740PQ0. I'm glad I didn't just read the first page and order parts! I'm having the same issue, but in checking the Flame Sensor, I mistakenly pulled BOTH wires off and didn't record which wire went to which terminal. I have a blue and a white. Which goes to which terminal? I THINK the culprit is my Ignitor. I'm getting a resistance of like 72 ohms. It's not 0, but pretty close. Is this enough off where I should replace THIS part? I'll continue to read the other Estate post to see if I can locate the 7 components (rather than the 5) from the original post. Thanks in advance for all of your help!!
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Gene,
Thanks for your prompt response! I checked all 7 of the parts (thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat, thermal cutoff, thermal fuse, ignitor, and flame sensor). All gave me zero except the ignitor, which was 70 ohms. I also just ran a 20' vacuum hoze down my dryer vent and got a lot of muck out of the ventilation system. I tried it on high heat (without the "dryness sensor") and it runs heat for about 3 minutes, then cuts out. I have a peephole that allows me to see the flame in the heating assembly. After about 5 minutes of running with no heat, it just fired back up again only to go out AGAIN. I know the heating element doesn't run all the time, but now as the dryer runs, I can watch the ignitor glow BRIGHT orange, but the burner is not generating a flame like it did before. Is it a gas issue? My supply is full and I also have a gas hot water heater that is working fine. I'm pulling my hair out, man. What gives??
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If there is no flame every time when the igniter is on, then the problem is a bad gas valve coils. No doubt about it. - The coils kit Part number: AP3094251
Gene.
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Thanks, Gene. How to reach the igniter, do I need to open the top part of the dryer, including remove the drum? It's a Whirlpool gas dryer, model # CG2951XYW3 Originally Posted by: Gene Looks like the cycling thermostat is fine. Now you have to check the igniter, flame sensor and gas valve coils. You picked up the wrong thread on the forum from the beginning. This thread describing troubleshooting for electric dryers. You can find the troubleshooting for gas dryers here: http://forum.appliancepartspros...3-no-heat-gas-dryer.htmlGene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene I will try to open the top panel tomorrow.
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