I cannot find info on this unit.
Hopefully you have the wiring diagram, if not check in the control console.

Often dryers have two thermal fuses. The one on the blower is for the motor. The one on the heating element case is for the heater. Could be you were looking at the wrong fuse.

Only way to check the thermistor is with a meter.

First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord. Be careful 240 volts is lethal.
If OK

Odds are that the thermal fuse is blown.
Unplug the unit and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it.

If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it's outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Note this is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.

I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

OK I went to Sears, It is Cutoff-tml Item 47 in the Bulkhead section.

[COLOR="Blue"]So I did this for the coil and am getting no reading at all (Infinity) plugged in not plugged in ground on cas hot on wire no measurement at all to the coil.[/COLOR]
Not quite sure what you mean?

[COLOR="Blue"]
Any ther thoughts or does it sound like the coil is bad[/COLOR]
Does sound like the heating coil is open, it should read around 12 ohms.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner but got stuck at the lake due to a storm.