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The dryer comes on but it won't heat up. The manual says to check the fuses inside the dryer but I can't find them. It says that there two of them.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for GLEQ2152ES models | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...ebster/134509400efsa.pdf The dryer comes on but it won't heat up. The manual says to check the fuses inside the dryer but I can't find them. It says that there two of them. I can only see one thermal fuse in the wiring diagram and it would stop the motor from starting so is not your problem. I would check the power at the plug first. If you do not have a meter flip the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heater requires the full 240 volts. If OK Run the diagnostics If OK Then check the heating coil should be around 12 ohms, the hi-limit thermostat (Item 33 in Section 1) should be 0 ohms and the thermistor should be around 50,000 ohms. If you have to pull the unit apart be sure to clean/check the rear support bearing for wear, replace if necessary, also re-grease it using a high temp grease. This is a weak point in this dryer. |
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I got similar problem but I think previous reply was inaccurate. There are 2 "thermal fuses" in the unit. The following describes my situation:
Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer
Dryer drum spins. No heat.
Dryer runs with wet clothes for awhile (10 mins +/-) and stops with wet clothes. “AD” appears on digital dislay. Typical display when dryer goes into automatic dry mode - to use moisture sensor to determine when clothes are dry.
Self Diagnostics yield Code "E68" - Stuck button on electronic control board. Buttons on control board are free and not stuck.
Additional self diagnostics yields Thermister Control reading 57 degrees with drum spinning and calling for heat.
Thermister Control also reading 57 degrees with drum spinning and NOT calling for heat.
Conclude the obvious - NO HEAT
Continuity testing on various following elements with dryer unplugged:
Thermister Control (bottom front of dryer at heat exhaust duct) with all wires disconnected = 50k +/- ohms (meter on 1k setting).
Thermal Limiter (mounted in upper half on rear wall of dryer steel shell casing) with all wires disconnected, cool condition = 0 ohms (i.e., meter pegged out)
Thermostat (mounted at 2 o’clock +/- on dryer heat element “casing” with all wires disconnected, cool condition = 0 ohms (i.e., meter pegged out).
Remove dryer drum to expose heating element coil. No obvious problems e.g., broken coil wire or the famous bra wire lodged between the coil wire and outer shell causing a ground out condition. Check continuity between the 2 healing coil element terminals = 45k +/- ohms (meter on 1k setting).
Conclude: Heating coil, thermal fuses and thermister control are OKAY. Followed troubleshooting chart and assumed Electronic Control Board is BAD.
Replaced Electronic Control Board. Reassembled unit. Still get same condition – dryer spins NO HEAT.
NOW WHAT? When I checked continuity across healing coil terminals I did not disconnect wires. I didn’t want to accidently damage heating coil assembly. Fatal flaw? Could it still be heating coil?
Have to now assume problem is not with Electronic Control Board.
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NOW WHAT? When I checked continuity across healing coil terminals I did not disconnect wires. I didn’t want to accidently damage heating coil assembly. Fatal flaw? Could it still be heating coil?
Not sure what is going on with the thermal fuses as I can only find one fuse and one hi-limit thermostat in the wiring diagram perhaps there has been an update to the unit.
Does not really matter as all fuses and thermostats should be zero ohms at room temperature.
Check continuity between the 2 healing coil element terminals = 45k +/- ohms (meter on 1k setting).
This is way too high, should read about 12 ohms.
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Well, I agree that I screwed up testing the heat element. I disconnected the wires at the heating element and got 10-12 ohms (meter on 1 setting)
So as I sat on the floor with all pieces of the dryer around me, I was really puzzled as to the next step. I thought about your 1st reply - check voltage at plug to make sure 240V. I have to admit it, I completely dismissed this check initially - a dble breaker losing one side of the line w/o tripping breaker? Naaaa that'll never happen!
WELL YOU WERE RIGHT I only had 120v at the plug! Reset breaker now I got 240v! - oh ya and an extra circuit board.
Oh well Live and learn :D
Re: the extra fuses - I think is just a misunderstanding in terminology. The website list the following parts: Thermal Limiter (#36), a Thermostat (#33) and a Thermister Control (#15).
Thanks for your input
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[COLOR="Blue"]Thanks for your input[/COLOR]
You are welcome.
Glad to hear you have it up and running.
Thanks for getting back to us. |
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Thanks for the tip, tried resetting the breaker first, though it didn't seem to be tripped. Worked like a charm... Glad i read the post before tearing into it.
Not sure why i didn't think to check the breaker when it first happened.
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Originally Posted by: wildrover  Well, I agree that I screwed up testing the heat element. I disconnected the wires at the heating element and got 10-12 ohms (meter on 1 setting)
So as I sat on the floor with all pieces of the dryer around me, I was really puzzled as to the next step. I thought about your 1st reply - check voltage at plug to make sure 240V. I have to admit it, I completely dismissed this check initially - a dble breaker losing one side of the line w/o tripping breaker? Naaaa that'll never happen!
WELL YOU WERE RIGHT I only had 120v at the plug! Reset breaker now I got 240v! - oh ya and an extra circuit board.
Oh well Live and learn :D
Re: the extra fuses - I think is just a misunderstanding in terminology. The website list the following parts: Thermal Limiter (#36), a Thermostat (#33) and a Thermister Control (#15).
Thanks for your input I'm having same problem. How did you fix the dryer? I tested all the fuses and thermostats. Etc
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