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primuss  
#621 Posted : Monday, October 5, 2009 8:21:05 AM(UTC)
primuss

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Gene,
I'm trying to locate the timer you say to check on a Frigidaire FRS6LC8FS2, but don't see any part listed as a timer on the diagrams. Any advice for this model?

The problem started yesterday morning, it was fine at 0600, by 1000 both sides were reading 60 degrees. I unpluged it, blew out all the dust bunnies and let it sit for 2 hours. Plugged back in and it cooled right down to -2/39. This morning a 0530 it was back to 60 degrees on both sides.
Gene  
#622 Posted : Monday, October 5, 2009 11:50:19 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: primuss Go to Quoted Post
Gene,
I'm trying to locate the timer you say to check on a Frigidaire FRS6LC8FS2, but don't see any part listed as a timer on the diagrams. Any advice for this model?

The problem started yesterday morning, it was fine at 0600, by 1000 both sides were reading 60 degrees. I unpluged it, blew out all the dust bunnies and let it sit for 2 hours. Plugged back in and it cooled right down to -2/39. This morning a 0530 it was back to 60 degrees on both sides.


Sound like the problem is not a faulty defrost system. Remove the rear cover and check how the compressor and the fan next to it are working. Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for FRG FRS6LC8FS2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
primuss  
#623 Posted : Monday, October 5, 2009 11:58:42 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for the response, Gene.
When I pulled the back (cardboard) cover off to clean it, the compressor was a little warm and the fan was spinning like crazy next to it. What would I be looking for?
Gene  
#624 Posted : Monday, October 5, 2009 12:06:49 PM(UTC)
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Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how the evaporator is covered with snow.

Gene.
primuss  
#625 Posted : Tuesday, October 6, 2009 2:51:19 PM(UTC)
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Well, the wife got impatient and called a service company. The tech came out and replaced the evap fan motor. Only $67 for the part, another $75 with trip and labor charge.......she'll never believe I could have done it myself.
Gene  
#626 Posted : Tuesday, October 6, 2009 4:50:37 PM(UTC)
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Good, very reasonable price and less headache. Not bad solution.

Gene.
johnthompson  
#627 Posted : Friday, October 9, 2009 5:47:59 AM(UTC)
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I am trying to understand if I have the electronic device for defrost that you mentioned below as a possible cause. I have GE Profile Arctic Model #PSC23PSTA.

Thank you
_______________________________



Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
Gene  
#628 Posted : Friday, October 9, 2009 2:13:44 PM(UTC)
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DIY_Stephen  
#629 Posted : Saturday, October 10, 2009 10:58:36 AM(UTC)
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Frigidaire model GLRS264ZAW4. Manufactured 06/02.

The refrigerator compartment was maintaining a temperature of approximately 46 degrees. Didn't really notice the high temps until the milk and meats started spoiling well before the expiration date. I estimate the problem existed for about 5 - 6 weeks before discovering the problem. I fiddled around with the fresh food temperature control (turning it all the way down and all the way up repeatedly). It is now set on 6 (maximum) and the temperature is now constant at approximately 39 degrees.

I checked the back panel of the freezer compartment for frost buildup (didn't remove the evaporator cover though) and didn't notice any.

Couldn't find any parts diagram for this model on the site (only parts), so I'm not sure if the defrost timer is mechanical or electrical (I'm thinking it's electrical).

Any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Regards,

Stephen
Gene  
#630 Posted : Saturday, October 10, 2009 1:27:41 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Stephen,

If there is no frost on the freezer panel then there is probably nothing wrong with the defrost system.

The first thing I would do is remove the front bottom grill and the rear cover and make sure the condenser is clean and the fan next to the compressor is running.

Be aware that you have to wait about 24 hours after any temperature adjustment to see the result.

Gene.
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