Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Upper oven will not heat - Bake or Broil. Lower oven works fine.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Most likely the hi temperature cut out is "off". It is resettable and located on the back of the oven.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Gene,
Thank you for your reply and suggestion. I will remove the oven from the wall and reset the "hi temp cut off" on the back of the oven. Hopefully it is easily identifiable. I will let you know what heppens. Thanks!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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I have removed the oven from the wall. I cannot locate a hi temperature cut out to reset. The only wires/items on the back of the oven are the wiring and connection points to the heat elements, the interior oven lights and the interior oven thermostats.
I did check the voltage coming to the elements and found the red wire for the broiler element and the black wire for the bake element both of which are connected tot he left side of the selector switch do produce 120 volts. Whereas the Blue wire that jumps to the bake and broil element that is connectected to the right side of the selector switch only produces about 60 volts. My understanding is that both leads should produce 120 volts.
I also noticed that when the selector switch is on Bake, both the red lead to the broil element and the black lead to the bake element produce 120 volts. Whereas when the selector switch is on broil the red wire connected to the broil element produces 120 volts and the black wire connecting to the bake element produces 14-15 volts. I assume this is normal in that when baking, the broil element may come on for a short period of time in order to quickly pre heat the oven to the disired bake temperature.
Please Advise.
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC) Posts: 323
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take both leads off of the bake element... ( MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT ALLOW EITHER OF THEM TO TOUCH CHASSIS !!!) CHECK each wire to ground to see which is HOT ( or has 120vac .. ) then turn power off and the wire that is not HOT ( doesn't have 120vac ) follow back to point of origin ( could be to a non-resettable safety t-stat, but could also be to the push button switch , which by the way, i think is NLA ) but it could also be to the HOT WIRE RELAY ....
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Kawfeeman,
I have done as suggested. The hot wire, or the wire that does not produce 120 volts, rather 48-60 volts, connects directly to the selector switch at the front of the oven. (along with about 30 other wires) part number 14-19-19-198. I do not see a reset button or switch on that part.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC) Posts: 323
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there is not a reset for the selector switch .. ( the other wire definitely does have 120vac ) ?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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No reset for the selecor switch that I can see. The other lead definately has 120 volts. In fact, the 120 volt producing lead comes form the other side of the selector switch.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC) Posts: 323
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have you made certain that the wire is not bad ???
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Yes, I can test the voltage/source at the selector switch, eliminating the wire question.
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