Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/19/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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To start, I think I know what the answer is to this but I would like another opinion before I spend the money. I have a Whirlpool oven (electric). The other night, while cooking something in the oven, the oven all of a sudden made a noise and locked the door. I am pretty sure there was a E2 and -F3- on the display. I didn't notice or write it down because we were in somewhat of a panic because there was food in the oven. After we put away the fans and put the batteries back in the smoke detectors and cleaned up the burnt mess, we were a little hesitant to use the oven again. We tried it again, and with very watchful eyes, it seemed to work ok. The other day, it did it again (while it was preheating). So, I shut off the breaker and let it sit for a while. Now, when I turn the power back on, the E2 -F3- will show up on the screen. Another funny thing is that when I turn the power on, the broiler element turns on and gets hot even though everything is off. I checked the Temp sensor. At room temp it ohms out at 1080 ohms. Is there something else I can check before thinking of replacing the main board? I saw the price of those things and I would like to be sure to eliminate everything else or prove it is the board before purchasing a new one. Thanks for the help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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1. Quote:...I checked the Temp sensor. At room temp it ohms out at 1080 ohms... 2. Quote:...when I turn the power on, the broiler element turns on and gets hot even though everything is off... You do not have to run any more tests. The control board is the culprit. I would buy the control board with an almond key panel just because its price is about $50 less. You can talk to the APP team to find out the ETA on the part. - The control board Part number: AP2989600
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/19/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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Thanks for the quick response Gene! That's what I thought but I wanted to make sure. Your help is very much appreciated. Thanks,
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/19/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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Hi gene, Me again. 2 to 4 weeks for a part. I don't suppose there is a way to disable the oven part so we could at least use the burners? Thanks,
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Remove the rear cover and disconnect either the "P-3" or "P-4" plug from the control board. According to the wiring diagram it should interrupt power to the control board. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/19/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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Gene, I initially tried disconnecting P3 (I misread the plug) and turned the power back on. I noticed that the broiler element still was heating. I looked on the diagram and I disconnected P2-1 just for that element. I powered it back up and the element is now off. No alarm displayed on the screen. I am wondering if my initial problem was that the relay that controls the broiler element was failing. This would cause the broiler element to turn on when it wasn't needed causing the oven to get too hot and then the control locking out the door because of the temperature. I can turn on the oven (I didn't turn it on for long) and the bottom element starts heating. I wonder if I can use it this way until I replace the part? Thoughts? Thanks,
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Very likely the problem is a bad (shorted) Broil relay on the control board. As long as power is not coming from the control board to the Broil element you probably can use the rest of its functions until you replace the board.
Gene.
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