Hi there,
My wife was running the cleaning cycle on our whirlpool rbd305pdb10 oven this week. At the end of the cycle we heard the oven beep. On the Oven the time had gone dead as well as the oven light.
I read on the boards here to try and replace the thermal fuse. I have done that and have the same result. The only thing else I am wondering if I should try replacing is the control board or the control panel.
Any thoughts on how to tell if one or the other is bad?
Thanks for any help
According to the wiring diagram there suppose to be a control panel thermal fuse which plugs into the control board and completely interrupts power if it’s blown.
Unfortunately this fuse is not shown in the parts list and I’m going to do more search Monday. So far you can open the control panel and check this fuse. It should be connected to “P24-3” terminal.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven Model RBD305PDB10
Gene.
Gene,
I found the fuse. It look like this, although I don’t know if it the exact part number.
I tried a continuity tester on it and it appears to be bad. Just looking at the fuse though it does not appear blown. Would I see a broken wire if it were bad? If you could help me figure the exact part number I will try that first.
Also in the diagram it shown 2 thermal fuses, one on the top oven and one of the bottom. On the manual I have it only shows the bottom thermal fuse. Maybe I will try and pull the oven back out and see if there is a thermal fuse on the top oven also.
A appreciate the help!
You found the right part. This is a thermal fuse and you can not visually inspect it. If your meter shows it’s open then just replace it and it should solve the problem.
Gene.
Is there only one type of this fuse? Or are there different amp versions?
I did jumper past the fuse and the oven worked, so I am sure that is the problem.
Thanks
This fuse is a thermal fuse and it works by temperature. Install the new fuse as far as possible from any metal oven body parts.
Gene.
Hi, Gene. I have the same problem. Self-clean. Bam! Nothing shows on the display panel and no power. Difference is I have a different model double oven, Whirlpool RDB245PDB11. I’ve removed the control panel and can see the thermal fuse; should I replace this part? Thanks much!
AF_Retired,
Even the model number of your oven is deferent, the solution is the same. The control panel thermal fuse and, possible, the thermal fuse on the back of the upper oven.
The part number for the control panel thermal fuse is AP3110028
The part number for the rear thermal fuse is [COLOR=#0066cc]AP3885687[/COLOR]
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven Model RBD245PDB11
Gene.
Whirlpool Double Oven
Model # RBD275PDB12
Gene,
Both ovens, control panel, and oven lights all went dead after using the auto cleaning mode on the upper oven. The circuit breaker to the oven is ON.
It looks like there could be a Thermostat behind the upper oven (AP3008987) and a thermal fuse behind the lower oven (AP313249). I’m also wishing there was a thermal fuse behind the control panel that would likely be much easier to replace, but I can’t find one on the diagram.
If I need to replace the thermostat or fuse behind the oven, is this something of a jack-of-no-trade home improvement guy like me can pull off? Thanks! - Scott
Scott,
Looks like you have the same situation as the other guys who posted here. The control panel thermal fuse and very likely the upper oven shutdown fuse are blown. I do not think the lower oven is affected because it was not used at that time. In case you have to remove the oven from the cabinet you’ll need a helper because it is pretty heavy. Otherwise it is not too difficult to replace the shutdown fuse (thermostat) on the rear panel.
The part number for the control panel thermal fuse is AP3110028
The part number for the upper oven shutdown fuse is AP3885687 (it has been changed by the manufacturer).
Gene.
Gene,
I received the control panel fuse you recommended AP3110028. One of the ends was too small to fit the connector on my oven. One end of AP3110028 is smaller than the other and my oven RBD275PDB12 has the same bigger sized connections. However, I bent the smaller fuse connector a little bit to get a decent connection. I thought all was good, until…
I turned back on the breaker switch to the oven and I now have clock power and an oven lgiht, but nothing else. The clock will not even adjust as the control panel seems dead. Next?? Thanks! Scott
Scott,
Double check the connection of the control panel ribbon into the control board. The part number for that thermal fuse came up by the oven model number.
Gene.
Gene,
It definitely looks like you’re on to something. I opened my control panel/board again and see that I may have ‘cracked’ the ribbon, likely damaging some of the wires while replacing that darn fuse. It looks like the ribbon easily comes off the board, but looks ‘built in’ to the panel. Do I need to replace the entire panel. If so, do you have the part number? Thanks! (Black Whirlpool Double Oven Model #RBD275PDB12)
Scott,
Unfortunately the broken ribbon is not repairable and you have to replace the entire control panel.
Gene.
Got the new control Panel installed and everything works great. Bummer a $10 thermal fuse fix turned into a $150 fix after I damaged the electrical ribbon between the board and panel. If anyone else is reading this, be careful not to damage the ribbon as you will have to replace the entire panel. I plan to never let my wife use the self-cleaning mode on this oven again.
Thanks again Gene.
Scott
You are welcome, Scott. I’m glad it works finely.
Gene.
Hi,
First of all thanks for reading and for any help. I had a similar problem to the other posters, dead controls after a self-clean. The oven is a Whirlpool double, RBD275PDQ6, about 9 years old. This self-clean cycle was odd, though, because nobody set it to clean, we never do because the first time we did it blew the thermal fuse. So my wife was pre-heating for baking and the self-clean came on. Maybe she hit the button accidentally, but we tried to shut it off and it wouldn’t shut off. The display said “cool” but the elements wouldn’t turn off, so finally we had to kill the power.
So I replaced the in-line thermal fuse, reset the door lock, and the control panel came back on and the lower oven worked. The top wouldn’t heat, so I figure the thermostat is bad. I open the back of the oven and test the thermostat. No continuity, so I call the local appliance place and give them the part number I had, which was 4451442. The said that there is a new part number for the same thing, so I picked it up. It is an “FSP 9759243” and doesn’t look like the old part, but they say it’s the same. So I put it on, test for continuity, it looks good, so I turn the power on. There was a loud “pop” from the unit when the power came on, but the panel came on, and I started the top oven and it started to heat up.
About 30 minutes after the power came on, after I had the oven buttoned up and back in its cabinet, my wife smelled smoke and there was smoke coming from the control panel. I cut the power and opened up the panel, and one relay (I think, a little clear plastic box with copper coils in it) has completely burned up.
So my questions are, did I do something wrong replacing that thermostat that could have burned up the component? Was the part the appliance place gave me the right one? If I were to replace the whole electronics assembly, will it just burn something up again? Do I need a pro? Are the repairs worth it with the age of the oven?
Again, thanks for reading this long tale, and for any help.
Justin
Salt Lake City
Justin,
You’ve replaced the thermal cut-off for the upper oven and it was heating after you did it. If it’s still heating then it has nothing to do with this part. The information form your local appliance place is correct. Whirlpool has redesigned this part and changed the part number.
At this time it is not clear what cause the short and damage to the control board. Try to figure out what is the fried relay for by the marks on the control board and the wiring diagram. Post the results.
Here are the break down diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RBD275PDQ6 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
[SIZE=1]Hi Gene,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Thanks a lot for your response. It looks like the relay was for the upper oven “bake” element. I disconnected the wire “P5-1” in the dagram and the lower oven still works fine. As far as tracking the short, I have pretty much exhausted my electrical know-how![/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]I really appreciate your taking the time to help![/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Justin[/SIZE]
Justin,
Does the Broil in the upper oven still work? If it does then there is nothing wrong with the installation of the thermal cut-off you did. It is possible that relay died by itself.
Gene.