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This could be caused by a loose connection at the incoming power supply junction box, a control failure, or wire harness failure. A good way to eliminate the power supply would be turning the breaker off, accessing the wires going into the dishwasher from the house, and ensuring they are connected to the dishwasher properly. From there, turn the power supply back on and check to see if the dishwasher will turn on or not. If this could be created as an individual post rather than as a comment, we would be happy to assist in identifying what might be happening with this dishwasher.
KSSP36QFS05 Kitchenaid built-in refrigerator/freezer - 25 years old
The freezer temperature has been erratic the past three days. Checking for the timer, P/N WP2183400, the defrost cycle has been: 10 hr, 10 hr and 11 hr.
An arbitrary reading with a laser thermometer high on the freezer back wall was in the 10 deg F range. Just before the defrost started the temperature dropped 5 deg F, then rose to 30 deg F. The elapsed time above 10 deg was about an hour.
I turned both the controls to minimum settings but the lowest readings were in the 5-6 deg range. There were some very strange readings five hours after the next-day, morning defrost. The temperature fluctuated 10 deg up and down for a bit more than two hours. After that I ran a brush over the upper coils (there did not appear to be much dust on them) and the temperature returned to 5 deg F.
Today, the temperature after a 7 AM defrost cycle (11 hrs since the last one) has been stable at minus 5 deg F for five hours. The upper coil temperature has been steady in the range of 9-12 deg above ambient.
Some questions. What is the standard period for defrosting? Could the timer cause fluctuations and what are the most probable scenarios? Is a 20 plus temperature rise and one hour elapsed time in the freezer during defrost normal? If the timer is the most likely failed (or failing) component, when can it be sent?
Unfortunately, the utilization of a surface temperature reader on the back wall of the freezer would not be an accurate temperature measuring method. This is due to the evaporator cover warming up due to the defrost heater operating. The most accurate method would be utilizing a wired or wireless thermometer with digital display. This will allow the actual temperature of the freezer cabin to be monitored, which can increase air temperature during a defrost cycle. The standard defrost time is around 8 hours of compressor run time where it will then go through a defrost cycle for up to 30 minutes.
I have a Whirlpool model WRS555S1HZ06 side by side fridge. I’ve replaced the ice maker 3 times! The unit intermittently stops making ice. Is there something else I should consider replacing?
Frigidaire gallery oven. GCRE3038AFE. Oven heats up but it doesn’t get to the temperature.and then everything shuts down, including the stove, top burners. There are no codes. The display board still shows and it’s not blank. We have shut off the circuit breaker and turned it back on. We have unplugged it and plugged it back in. We checked the power cord. And it still continues to do it. We don’t know which part to order. The oven burners, the broiler burners, and the confection fan all work inside the oven.
Malfunction follow up. Failure of the mixer to run was due to the armature binding up. This may be due to a motor mounting design flaw.
When disassembling the mixer I found one of the anchor nuts to be loose, and the armature difficult to turn. Thinking the loose mounting to be a source of the failure to operate, I snugged both mounting nuts. The armature was solidly bound. I then proceeded to alternately loosen the nuts in small increments. As I did so, I was able to manually rotate the armature. I continued this process until the armature rotated freely with no indication of instability. With the nuts solidly against the mounting frame, but not “bottomed out,” there was the possibility that, over time, one or the other would back out allowing the armature to bind once again. To minimize the possibility of this occurrence, I placed a bit of thread lock compound on the nut threads as I positioned them on the stud.
I reassembled the mixer and adjusted the speed settings per mfg instructions. The machine has been returned to its rightful place, and continues to operate flawlessly, amongst our kitchen tools.
GE GFW550SSN1WW FRONT LOAD WASHER. Installed WH22X38597 main board along with new drain pump. Installed a number 2 personality. When I accessed the field service mode to check pump (number 12} the indicating lights go out. Tried the spin (14) and it works fine. In disconnecting the J512 connection block to check voltage to the pump the service mode (12) does not register. What next?
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