the washer will work fine all but spin the washer will drain and if you lift the lid will spin.at other times it works ok.based on other posts we have replaced the motor coupler,clutch,timer,door switch,motor control one part at a time and still have the problem any ideas? my wife is starting to think i can’t fix the thing is about to call a repairman.
Which part did you call “motor control”? Would it spin with your help (manually move the inner tub)?
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Gene.
the part i’m calling motor control is part # 20 in the brake,clutch,gearcase motor and pump parts list and it will not start if you try to spin the drum
Check the drive block and the spin tube as described in one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/373-not-spinning.html
Gene.
checked the block didn’t find anything broken,the drum is very hard to turn feels as if it is locked in place.took out the transmission asmy and it is still hard to turn. should we replace the block anyway? thanks for your help.
Do not rush with the parts without proper diagnosis. The next step I would recommend is check the brakes as described here: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/3265-replacing-direct-drive-washer-brake-shoes.html
Gene.
everything looks and feels ok did as the post said put washer back together washer drum moves smooth and will spin if you lift and close the lid or if you wait a little while the motor will stop and start again and will spin. the wife had me call the local repair guy on the phone who said it is the transmision he replaces 1 about every 2-3 months i can’t believe that this is the problem.thanks for your input
[QUOTE=jschwein;73760]…will spin if you lift and close the lid or if you wait a little while the motor will stop and start again and will spin[/QUOTE]
Due to your washer has a neutral drain transmission, it should stop for a few seconds during the drain to engage the spin. This stop interval operates by the timer and has nothing to do with the transmission.
Gene.
the motor stops then restarts but spin may not start if you let it sit it may start or may go to the rinse and after that may or may not spin but every time i have lifted the lid and it spins it go to rinse and will spin. thanks for your input
The washer still does not work properly after you replaced most of parts and checked the rest. I’m really stumped. Maybe somebody else on the forum van help you better.
Gene.
thanks for your input as soon as i figure out the answer to the problem i will let you know
You probably have a worn clutch, I just revised my article ( replacing direct drive brake shoes) with a test for this. Basically, it will show up as a below 9 amp spin current. Or you can just pull the tranny and do the clutch test.
Uh, I see you replaced the clutch. You might have a stripped nylon gear in the tranny. With the tranny in the washer, turn the coupler clockwise and see if the spin basket will turn. A busted gear will show up as a grinding sound in the tranny. If ok, I would pull the spin basket and look for something in there.
The washer will not spin the washer but it will drain. We have just started our search to get it fixed. I think it is the gear box. Any suggestions? I don’t want to call a repairman due to costs. Any other ideas? 
Is there a set of instructions on how to pull the basket>
well the wife said replace the gear case we did same problem will work but when it goes to spin you can hear the motor running it pumps out the water and will not spin. if you lift the lid and shut it it will spin. we have replaced the timer,clutch,gear box,gear coupler,water level switch,lid switch,brake shoes,motor start switch.checked and didn’t see cracks in the drive block and the brake and drive tube slots look ok. after all this i’m lost of what the problem can be.could the drive block or the self cleaning filter cause this or i’m i just missing something. i’m open to try about anything i keep thinking at the rate i’m going we could have just gotten a new washer
If you have a really pitted (from rust) brake housing, the brake shoes will drag. Dropping the lid is jarring them loose.
If ok, monitor the washer while it goes thru the wash cycle, and goes into spin. The timer must interupt power for a few seconds to allow the neutral clutch to engage. If this fails to happen, you have a bad timer.
If everything is still ok, remove the agitator and look at the spin tube tabs, if moving past the slots while in spin, you need a new drive block.