Thermador XLO No Gas Flow

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
1

Model# SGCS365RB
SN 81810049NB

Four of the five burners work.

Of the two XLO burners, one sparks but the gas valve doesn’t open. The other one I can hear the solenoid open and then it sparks and ignites. Since the spark looks good on the one that doesn’t ignite and the gas valve opens before the spark even starts on the one that does ignite, I assume whatever controls the solenoid is the culprit.

I read here similar models needed a new potentiometer. Just wanted to know if this and or the control unit was the issue. Does the AP3872616 kit work on this model/serial combination?

Thanks

2

Does anyone know if just the potentiometer is needed or is it the control unit also? Is there a test for either?

Thanks

3

Answered here: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/19423-cooktop-no-gas-one-burner.html#post54819

Gene.

4

Hello,

      I'm having the exact same issue. I have the following:

Thermador SGCS365RB
SN 20030115NB

After reading this thread and a few others, I was convinced it was the potentiometer as well. I have swapped the working with with the non-working one to test the theory and sure enough, the opposite XLO burner works and the previously working one fails. So I’m convinced I’ve ordered the right part for the repair.

However, now that I have the part, it doesn’t seem to fit. It must fit flush around the metal shaft that the burner knob sits on top of (it’s a half-circle shape). Otherwise when you turn the burner knob, the potentiometer won’t catch, and therefore won’ work (it will always be in the ‘off’ position).

Please see the pics I’ve posted here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/jamesballard5/Potentiometer?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWpwMaA2vPO-AE#

The reddish one is the older, broken one. You can see that the opening is much smaller on that one. I’ve taken some pics of the new one in place and you can see the large gap where turning the knob wouldn’t catch.

This is the new part that I purchased:
Part Details - BOSCH Potentiometer, part number: AP2825524

Based on this page:
Gas and electric component parts replacement parts for THERMADOR SGCS365RB | AppliancePartsPros.com

It’s item #6 on that page. I’ve verified that my Serial Number is within the right range for that part and doesn’t need the potentiometer ‘kit’.

I’d appreciate any help from the gurus out there. Please let me know what I’ve done wrong or if I need a different part. Thanks in advance for any help.

PS, thanks to the forum for helping me get this far.

5

[QUOTE=jamesb5;330749]Hello,

      I'm having the exact same issue. I have the following:

Thermador SGCS365RB
SN 20030115NB

After reading this thread and a few others, I was convinced it was the potentiometer as well. I have swapped the working with with the non-working one to test the theory and sure enough, the opposite XLO burner works and the previously working one fails. So I’m convinced I’ve ordered the right part for the repair.

However, now that I have the part, it doesn’t seem to fit. It must fit flush around the metal shaft that the burner knob sits on top of (it’s a half-circle shape). Otherwise when you turn the burner knob, the potentiometer won’t catch, and therefore won’ work (it will always be in the ‘off’ position).

Please see the pics I’ve posted here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/jamesballard5/Potentiometer?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWpwMaA2vPO-AE#

The reddish one is the older, broken one. You can see that the opening is much smaller on that one. I’ve taken some pics of the new one in place and you can see the large gap where turning the knob wouldn’t catch.

This is the new part that I purchased:
Part Details - BOSCH Potentiometer, part number: AP2825524

Based on this page:
Gas and electric component parts replacement parts for THERMADOR SGCS365RB | AppliancePartsPros.com

It’s item #6 on that page. I’ve verified that my Serial Number is within the right range for that part and doesn’t need the potentiometer ‘kit’.

I’d appreciate any help from the gurus out there. Please let me know what I’ve done wrong or if I need a different part. Thanks in advance for any help.

PS, thanks to the forum for helping me get this far.[/QUOTE]

jamesb5,

I am going to do a little research on my end and get back to you tomarrow.

Thanks for your patience

6

James,

After some researches I did, I found the correct part number for your stove.

Somebody from the Appliance Parts Pros customer service will contact you soon to instruct you on how to exchange these parts.

Gene.

7

[QUOTE=Gene;331727]James,

After some researches I did, I found the correct part number for your stove.

Somebody from the Appliance Parts Pros customer service will contact you soon to instruct you on how to exchange these parts.

Gene.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, Gene. That part looks right.

8

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

9

[QUOTE=Gene;332420]You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.[/QUOTE]
Got the new part and it works like a champ!

Thanks again to everybody who helped out!

10

You are welcome. We are glad you were able to fix it.

Thank you for the feedback.

Gene.

11

I have same problem as described below, no gas to front xlo burners. I too changed the potentiometer from one to the other. In my case the front burner still has no gas flow. Based on this it seems unlikely that the problem is the potentiometer. What else could it be?

Thanks

12

Perform the troubleshooting as described in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/19423-cooktop-no-gas-one-burner.html#post54819

What is the complete model number of the stove?

Gene.

13

Gene,
Thanks for your reply. The model is PGR364GD. To provide a little more detail- the issue with left front burner (XLO) started with the flame going out after short time, maybe a minute. This would cause igniter to fire repeatedly in attempt to lite but at that point no gas. This condition lasted a couple days. Now the burner will not light at all. Nor is there gas.
As mentioned is swapped positions of potentiometer from front to back control. This did not change condition.
Unfortuanatly I do not have any test equipment to measure voltage as described in test plan. Can you tell me if there is any other simple test (like swapping plugs or ??).
Alternatively can you give me your best guess of what part(s) I should try? Given the simple experiment I performed it seems unlikely to be potentiometer right?
Thanks

14

The problem can be a bad gas simmer control (#12 on the diagram) or a bad solenoid (#8 on the diagram). You also have to check all wires between these parts.

Without the diagnosis you have to replace both of them because of 50/50 chance.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for THERMADOR PGR364GDZS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

15

Gene
Thank you again for your reply. Not to overstay my welcome but one more question. It appears both of these parts are under the drip tray. For my model PGR364GD, how do I remove the drip tray. It appears to be held down by the venturi tube. Is that the case? If I losen that nut/tube will that allow me to remove tray?
Thanks again. You have been very helpful.

16

[QUOTE=lorenl;340201]…It appears to be held down by the venturi tube. Is that the case? If I losen that nut/tube will that allow me to remove tray?..[/QUOTE]

This is correct. You have to remove them completely. Use a socket wrench to unscrew them and do not apply too much force because you can easy brake the gas tubes.

If you would not be able to unscrew the venturi then you have to cut them off using a dremel tool. Unfortunately this is the only possible way to take it apart.

Gene.

17

Thanks Gene.
Sounds like I should buy a couple tubes just in case!

18

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

19

Gene,

I have a similar problem and need to understand the proper disasembly procedure to access the wireing.

20

Bill,

Can you be more specific on the problem?

It also would not hurt if you’ll post the complete model number of the unit.

Gene.