Refrigerator not cooling, but freezer is working

The freezer is working, but the refrigerator is not cooling. We cleaned the coils, but the fan continues to run. The temperature in the refrigerator was at 55 degrees. We then shut off the fan, and it has cooled down to 45.

It seems to be the fan? Please direct us to the problem

you cleaned the coils? is it frosted? if it is frosted then usually one of the defrost components has failed,maybe the defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat.

[QUOTE=inutel;157]you cleaned the coils? is it frosted? if it is frosted then usually one of the defrost components has failed,maybe the defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat.[/QUOTE]

No the coils weren’t frosted. They were dusty, and we vaccummed them.

I thought that the temp had gone down once we turned off the fan, but I may have read the temp wrong, because I just checked it and it is at 57 degrees.

Hello geri,

When you say freezer is working you mean freezing?
If the freezer is between zero-10 degrees and the fan motor is running usually indicate the airflow is not getting into the fresh food section.

You might check the damper control to see if its opening up and/or the vent clear.

I have also seen in some cases where the foam venting gets wet or breaks apart.

Click here for parts breakdown and look at diagram # 4 items 426, 428 and 429 damper parts. It may just not be opening

I am having the same problem with a Kenmore fridge 636.9762815.

The freezer gets very cold and the fridge has been as warm as 70 F.

I checked the defrost termination thermostat with an Ohm meter and it showed no resistance. Cool air does make it down to the fridge part, but before if I had it to cold I could almost freeze pop in the bottom part.

Any help would be greatly appreicated

James

I’m having a similar problem with my 3 1/2 year old Kenmore side by side. The freezer keeps everything frozen at 0 degrees, but the fridge will only cool to about 40 if the door is never opened. Otherwise, the temp is often as high as 55. The only thing that I noticed is that the front of the dividing wall is very hot to the touch. Was thinking that maybe the auto defrost wasn’t turning off. I did turn it off and unplugged it for 6 hours, then plugged it back in and turn it on and it’s about 34 with the fridge temp control cranked all the way up. Any ideas??

I have been having same type problem for the last few days with my Kenmore 10652702100 side by side. My friend in the appliance repair business said if the freezer is working Ok and the fridge is not then it is usually the air diffuser. This part is located at the top of the refridgerator side on the divider between the two sides. I haven’t replaced mine yet but think he is correct as I can’t detect any airflow from this unit.

I have been having the same type problem. My freezer freezes but refrigerator side is warming up. I think we’re talking to different sets of coils and two fans. The dusty coils on the outside of the refrigerator and that fan are probably working OK. But you have another fan and set of coils inside the freezer compartment. In my Maytag these coils and fan are behind a panel at the back of the freezer. If the defroster is not working these coils can frost up and not allow the fan to circulate cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator section. When I removed the back panel in my freezer I found the coils were frosted so heavily no air could circulate. So my question is how do you troubleshoot the defroster? This might be your problem also. I also read on another Web site a good thing to do is set the freezer and refrigerator temperature controllers back to midrange for a day. This has helped me on a few occasions where turning them up to max cold was not working. Anyway, good luck to all of us. Summer is bad time to loose your cool.

If you remove the back wall inside the freezer and find that the evaporator coils have ice builtup on them, this usually indicates a defrost problem (defrost heater and thermostat or defrost timer (or adaptive defrost control on newer models)).

If the evap. coils are more or less clean, then it’s probably the air diffuser (also called damper control). The diffuser is located between the freezer and the refrigerator sections.

I would recommend checking the evaporator coils first. Let us know what you found.

  • jtrichards, please double check your model number. It doesn’t come up at all.

  • troy, please post your model number.

  • dshaw01, diffuser is #13 on this diagram and you can see price and photos here.

  • tottalyoff, please pots your model number.

Hello! My Kenmore bottom freezer Trio refridgerater is not cooling down. It is at 60 degrees right now. I have not idea what to do? Is there anything that I can try? My model number is 596.76519500 Only 2 years old.

Any help would be appreciated!

[quote=Admin / APP Team;648]If you remove the back wall inside the freezer and find that the evaporator coils have ice builtup on them, this usually indicates a defrost problem (defrost heater and thermostat or defrost timer (or adaptive defrost control on newer models)).

If the evap. coils are more or less clean, then it’s probably the air diffuser (also called damper control). The diffuser is located between the freezer and the refrigerator sections.[/quote]

My fridge is warm but my freezer is fine. I have been reading this but trying to grasp it all (I know nothing about this kind of stuff) Do I empty out the freezer and pull out a wall or pull out the whole fridge/freezer and pull off a wall there to check the coils?

I have a Frigidaire model FRS26WRC

TIA!!

The first thing I would do is remove all food from the freezer and check for the snow on the back panel.
If there is a snow, then the problem is with the defrost system.

If there is no snow, then check if the fan in the freezer is running.

Please, post your findings.

  • Here are the break down diagrams for the Frigidaire refrigerator Model FRS26WRCD0

Gene.

There is definately a “Snow” build up on the back panel. So is it worth having a repair person out to fix (I have no idea what the costs would be?) or should we just get a new fridge? I don’t want to spend $400+ fixing an old fridge when that’s almost 1/2 the price of a new one.

Looks like the problem is a faulty defrost system.

It consists of three parts: defrost timer (#23 on the controls break down diagram), defrost heater (#14 on the system break down diagram) and the defrost thermostat (#21 on the system break down diagram).

Locate the pin in the center of the defrost timer (through the hole in the cover) and, using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn it clockwise until it clicks.
Wait about 10 minutes and check if the defrost heater got hot (the coils behind the back panel in the freezer should be covered with snow).

If the defrost heater got hot, then replace the defrost timer.

If not, then unplug the fridge and check the defrost heater for continuity.

If the defrost heater is open, replace it.

If the defrost heater is closed, then replace the defrost thermostat.

The cost of repair in the worst case (if the problem is a bad defrost heater) is going to be a little bit over a $100.

Gene.

I see alot of people with a similar problem, but not sure if it is the same. My freezer did get warm and started defrosting items, and we notice the frig was getting warm. We removed items from the freezer and now it seems to be working some what. The frig is at 57 degrees and last night the freezer was at 21 but the stuff on the door is slightly defrosted. I don’t hear the frig kick in when the door is open too long. A friend thought it may be the compressor. Any thoughts

In order to give the most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the fridge.

Post it as a new thread, please.

Gene.

[quote=geri;151]The freezer is working, but the refrigerator is not cooling. We cleaned the coils, but the fan continues to run. The temperature in the refrigerator was at 55 degrees. We then shut off the fan, and it has cooled down to 45.

It seems to be the fan? Please direct us to the problem[/quote]
First pop off the cover on the front of the ice maker. Look at the plastic gear. If it’s plastic. In the middle are two tabs. The gear may be nearly brocken. May need to replace that module. Also the water inlet valve may not be working. The fill tube to the ice maker may have frozen water in it.

I have an 8 yr old GE s by s and I have repalced the heater/defrost element a 2nd time. Freezer makes ice but the refere sits on 50-60 degs 'sup with that?

SUSHIDAN,

What is the complete model number of the refrigerator? Is there any frost on the back panel in the freezer?

Gene.

I have almost 2 yr old Sears 25’ Elite double door bottom freezer Model # 596.76532500. Shortly after it went out of warranty the frig & freezer would periodically warm up for no reason. Contacted Sears -but they would not stand behind only wanted money. Ck’d & cleaned bottom coils -no response. Ck’d for frost - found some minor frosting - cleaned disconnected frig and reconnected severla times - Frig started to cool down. Previous failures included both frig & freezer would warm up - this time only upper frig area… This happens almost every few months - no apparent reason. My previous frig was a 20yr old Whirlpool -that never had probelm…:frowning: Any ideas.