dryer works fine but no heat? Keeps blowing the T.C.O I have put 1 new one on and it blow in about 20 min. Thanking it is the P.C.M. Does this sound right to you? Thank you.
At this time no, the PCB is the least likeliest problem.
You need to check and make sure the exhaust pipe(in dryer), the lint filter,blower area, and the exhaust vent(in the wall),is not clogged or restricted with lint, check for kinked collapsed flex vent or crushed vent hood,etc .
Then check for a shorted heater element or wire to the element.
When you replace the TCO, you should also replace the hi limit thermostat(manufacturer reccomended procedure).
You’ll most likely find a vent or exhaust problem(in most cases) but you still need to repalce both thermostats.
Thanks Joe, I just replaced the vent with solid all new. The blue wire is unpluged from the tco and the pcb and i have contonuaty to ground and about 1.5vac with dryer pluged in none with unpluged. short in wire?
P.S I do not spell very well I am very sorry. Thank You
[quote=Joe / APP Team;250869]At this time no, the PCB is the least likeliest problem.
You need to check and make sure the exhaust pipe(in dryer), the lint filter,blower area, and the exhaust vent(in the wall),is not clogged or restricted with lint, check for kinked collapsed flex vent or crushed vent hood,etc .
Then check for a shorted heater element or wire to the element.
When you replace the TCO, you should also replace the hi limit thermostat(manufacturer reccomended procedure).
You’ll most likely find a vent or exhaust problem(in most cases) but you still need to repalce both thermostats.[/quote]
No Short in heater element also it reads 12ohms
[quote=Joe / APP Team;250869]At this time no, the PCB is the least likeliest problem.
You need to check and make sure the exhaust pipe(in dryer), the lint filter,blower area, and the exhaust vent(in the wall),is not clogged or restricted with lint, check for kinked collapsed flex vent or crushed vent hood,etc .
Then check for a shorted heater element or wire to the element.
When you replace the TCO, you should also replace the hi limit thermostat(manufacturer reccomended procedure).
You’ll most likely find a vent or exhaust problem(in most cases) but you still need to repalce both thermostats.[/quote]
You did great,
Your element is good.
But, the blue wire is shorted somewhere in the harness or the cabinet frame.
My guess is, it’s somewhere near the heater or exhaust pipe, but that’s only a guess.
Shorted wires are the hardest thing to find in an appliance(unless the harness is burnt or has obvious damage).
And remember, to replace both thermostats, when you repair the machine.
Good Luck;)
Thanks Joe you have been a big help. Mark L Congdon
[quote=Joe / APP Team;251235]You did great,
Your element is good.
But, the blue wire is shorted somewhere in the harness or the cabinet frame.
My guess is, it’s somewhere near the heater or exhaust pipe, but that’s only a guess.
Shorted wires are the hardest thing to find in an appliance(unless the harness is burnt or has obvious damage).
And remember, to replace both thermostats, when you repair the machine.
Good Luck;)[/quote]
You’re quite welcome,
Let us know how things went.
Hey Joe can you tell me how much volts ac are at the T.C.O from the P.C.B Thank you.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;251796]You’re quite welcome,
Let us know how things went.[/quote]
AC voltage from the PCB to the TCO is 120 volts on the blue wire, with the machine running in a heat mode.
Did you find something else ?
No Just thought 120v might be high that is what i have thanks alot Joe you have been a big help. Mark L Congdon:)
Hey Joe the dryer worked fine for about 3 cycles then it started to what seemed liked it was overheating. It would run for about 1/2 cycle then no power to the controll panel let it cool down it would run again. Now it will not run at all but there is power at the controll panel. I have taking it all apart and have found that the {TH1 TCO} Is bad. The brown wire is grounded from the TH1 to the motor. It is most likely the Overload Protector or Motor since the brown wire is grounded 7.46m omes through the yellow wire to door switch then throw blue wire to main controll to ground (green wire). Unplug the blue and green wire at the main controll and the ground goes away. My heater is at 10.6 omes and needs to be at 10 omes but I dont thank that is to bad. But my Thermo the blue and red wire is at 237 omes at 75 degrees (F) and it needs to be at 10 k omes at 77 degrees (F). The sensor bars for the moisture sensor is good I do not see how it can go bad unless it rust. But it reads infinity no laundry cross it with wire it reads contonuaty. So I thank it is the motor but still do not understand why it seamed to get hot. P.S I am sorry about the spelling.
first things first
When you are checking the components(thc, thermistor etc.)you are testing them with the wires off,they must be off the component for a proper reading.
I still don’t think you have a bad motor or PCB, just damaged wires and a bad thermistor(if you tested it correctly, wires off).
Repair or replace the wiring harness, if you haven’t yet,
re test the th1, thermistor and sensor bar,
Disconnect the green wire fron the chassis ground and re check the blue,yellow and brown wires, you may be reading ground because that circuit is the Neutral leg of the circuit and is jumped to ground at the chassis ground, you may be getting a false reading.
The thermistor should read 10,000 ohms at room temp.you should see a resistance change if you warm the thermistor(it should be an increase in resistance).
Your drum sensor should have infinite resistance with nothing across the metal strips and approximately 200 ohms with a wet cloth across the 2 metal strips.
Once you’ve checked everything properly and with the green ground wire off, I would suspect a bad PCB, before a bad motor.
PS. As long as the machine is plugged in and has power, there should be 120 VAC on the black wires at the PCB motor and heater relay(s) That circuit has no thermo fuses or thermostats and should not loose voltage..
:rolleyes: Joe I am testing them (thc, thermistor ect.) with the wires off. There is 120v at the pcb black wire heater and 118v at the pcb black wire motor all wires connected. With the green wire unscrewed from ground and dryer unpluged from wall I get 7.46m omes. With it connected to ground and dryer pluged into wall I get 1.9 omes.
Disconect the red, brown, green, and yellow wire from motor the omes go away.
The th1 reads open wires disconnected and the thermo reads 237 omes wires disconnected and at room temp. Sensor bar reads open with no wet cloth and with wet cloth it reads 1.5m omes. Thanks Joe
first things first
When you are checking the components(thc, thermistor etc.)you are testing them with the wires off,they must be off the component for a proper reading.
I still don’t think you have a bad motor or PCB, just damaged wires and a bad thermistor(if you tested it correctly, wires off).
Repair or replace the wiring harness, if you haven’t yet,
re test the th1, thermistor and sensor bar,
Disconnect the green wire fron the chassis ground and re check the blue,yellow and brown wires, you may be reading ground because that circuit is the Neutral leg of the circuit and is jumped to ground at the chassis ground, you may be getting a false reading.
The thermistor should read 10,000 ohms at room temp.you should see a resistance change if you warm the thermistor(it should be an increase in resistance).
Your drum sensor should have infinite resistance with nothing across the metal strips and approximately 200 ohms with a wet cloth across the 2 metal strips.
Once you’ve checked everything properly and with the green ground wire off, I would suspect a bad PCB, before a bad motor.
PS. As long as the machine is plugged in and has power, there should be 120 VAC on the black wires at the PCB motor and heater relay(s) That circuit has no thermo fuses or thermostats and should not loose voltage..[/quote]
[quote=markcongdon;253422]:rolleyes: Joe I am testing them (thc, thermistor ect.) with the wires off. There is 120v at the pcb black wire heater and 118v at the pcb black wire motor all wires connected. With the green wire unscrewed from ground and dryer unpluged from wall I get 7.46m omes. With it connected to ground and dryer pluged into wall I get 1.9 omes.
Disconect the red, brown, green, and yellow wire from motor the omes go away.
The th1 reads open wires disconnected and the thermo reads 237 omes wires disconnected and at room temp. Sensor bar reads open with no wet cloth and with wet cloth it reads 1.5m omes. Thanks Joe[/quote]
Mark,
Did this dryer take a voltage spike, or did it get wet or flooded ?
Please Supply me with the serial number, maybe there was a change in the specifications that I,m not aware of.
We know you need a TH1 thermostat and thermistor,and that your sensor is OK.
Now check the motor terminals(wires off the motor) :
brown to green should be an open circuit.(pin 4 to pin 7)
yellow to green should be an open circuit.(pin 5 to pin 7)
brown to yellow approximately 3 to 5 ohms resistance.(pin 4 to pin 5)
That will tell us if your motor is good or bad.
This is getting to be good, We’ll have it figured out soon.
Joe, Thank you for staying with me.
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]The Model # is MDE9700AYW and the ser # is 15830344JL and it has had no volt spikes or water. Though my wife said about too weeks ago there was steam inside on the door during the cycles. 4 to 5 brown to yellow (2.7ohms) and 4 to 7 and 5 to 7 open. Just reading tec manual and just fyi pin 3 to 4 (2.4 ohms).[/COLOR][/LEFT]
Joe I just checked the door switch and It is bad. Door open (Com to NC .3ohms) (Com to NO Open) Door closed (Com to NC open) (Com to NO .2ohms).
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/111685-no-heat-2.html#post253474#ixzz0w9P0rzlG [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]http://forum.appliancepartspros.com [/COLOR][/LEFT]
[quote=Joe / APP Team;253460]Mark,
Did this dryer take a voltage spike, or did it get wet or flooded ?
Please Supply me with the serial number, maybe there was a change in the specifications that I,m not aware of.
We know you need a TH1 thermostat and thermistor,and that your sensor is OK.
Now check the motor terminals(wires off the motor) :
brown to green should be an open circuit.(pin 4 to pin 7)
yellow to green should be an open circuit.(pin 5 to pin 7)
brown to yellow approximately 3 to 5 ohms resistance.(pin 4 to pin 5)
That will tell us if your motor is good or bad.
This is getting to be good, We’ll have it figured out soon.
[/quote]
Thanks alot for you help Joe.
No problem,
We’re here to help, as best we can.
Joe if i replace the TH1 thermostat and thermistor and door switch do you thank this will solve the problem.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;254129]No problem,
We’re here to help, as best we can.
:)[/quote]
Wow,
I didn’t think about a bad door switch, not yet anyway.
Yes, that could explain most of the grounded circuits we were getting.
It would also explain a voltage bleed through. The door switch could allow as much as 200 volts on 120 volt circuits causing the failures.
My only fear would be that the control board has been damaged, but you should try the parts first.
Hopefully we’re done and you’ll be running proper after the parts are installed.
Thaks alot joe I will give it a try.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;254332]Wow,
I didn’t think about a bad door switch, not yet anyway.
Yes, that could explain most of the grounded circuits we were getting.
It would also explain a voltage bleed through. The door switch could allow as much as 200 volts on 120 volt circuits causing the failures.
My only fear would be that the control board has been damaged, but you should try the parts first.
Hopefully we’re done and you’ll be running proper after the parts are installed.
;)[/quote]