OK,
Let me know what happen’s.
Usually it’s a Thermal switch that is no longer working properly or your heating coils or element is shorted out or burned out. Check ALL thermal temp controllers and heater coils for continuity.Sometimes the start resister will blow if the filter is stopped up or there is lint in the system causing overheating but this is not your problem there.I found one dryer once where a wire was rubbing the drum and shorted out and you guess it,NO HEAT!
Joe got my door switch in and it had the same ohms as the old one according to this site it should be differnt. thanks mark
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16026116.pdf
[quote=Joe / APP Team;254715]OK,
Let me know what happen’s.
:)[/quote]
[quote=markcongdon;258981] Joe got my door switch in and it had the same ohms as the old one according to this site it should be differnt. thanks mark
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16026116.pdf[/quote]
Mark,
Recheck the switch circuits with the wires off, before you install it and connect the wires.
That doesn’t make sense, unless the diagram is wrong from the manufacturer ?
Joe I checked it right out of the package it is weird.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;259001]Mark,
Recheck the switch circuits with the wires off, before you install it and connect the wires.
That doesn’t make sense, unless the diagram is wrong from the manufacturer ?
[/quote]
Mark,
Let’s do this the old fashioned way…
Your door switch.
With the switch plunger out (like the door was open).
COM#3 to N/C #1 = closed circuit
COM#3 to N/O #2 = open circuit.
N/C#1 to N/O #2 = open circuit.
With the plunger depressed in (like the door was closed).
COM#3 to N/C#1 = open circuit.
COM#3 to N/O#2 = closed circuit.
N/C#1 to N/O #2 = open circuit.
If the switch circuits check out, install the switch and wire it up.
At the Main Control board.
Disconnect the Blue wire from the heater relay teminal(leave the black wire connected).
Start a timed dry cycle( with heat setting on high temperature).
(THIS IS A AC VOLTAGE TEST … BE CAREFUL)
Check the heat relay terminal for 120 VAC out to the heater, to chassis ground.
Check the terminal of the blue wire for 120 VAC out of the heater, to chassis ground.
Let the unit run for a while, 10 to 15 minutes, and recheck the voltage again.
If they check proper after that, replace the control board.
There would have to be a problem in the board circuits when there is a voltage load on the system.
Joe give me some time I am still waiting on my back order parts. As soon as they come in I can do the test. The door switch did test the way you had. Thank you
[quote=Joe / APP Team;259503]Mark,
Let’s do this the old fashioned way…
Your door switch.
With the switch plunger out (like the door was open).
COM#3 to N/C #1 = closed circuit
COM#3 to N/O #2 = open circuit.
N/C#1 to N/O #2 = open circuit.
With the plunger depressed in (like the door was closed).
COM#3 to N/C#1 = open circuit.
COM#3 to N/O#2 = closed circuit.
N/C#1 to N/O #2 = open circuit.
If the switch circuits check out, install the switch and wire it up.
At the Main Control board.
Disconnect the Blue wire from the heater relay teminal(leave the black wire connected).
Start a timed dry cycle( with heat setting on high temperature).
(THIS IS A AC VOLTAGE TEST … BE CAREFUL)
Check the heat relay terminal for 120 VAC out to the heater, to chassis ground.
Check the terminal of the blue wire for 120 VAC out of the heater, to chassis ground.
Let the unit run for a while, 10 to 15 minutes, and recheck the voltage again.
If they check proper after that, replace the control board.
There would have to be a problem in the board circuits when there is a voltage load on the system.
:)[/quote]
Sorry,
I didn’t know you were waiting on parts,
Waiting is not a problem,
Hope to hear from you soon, with a resolution for the problem.