My Whirlpool Dishwasher circulating pump, will not run

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Brand :Whirlpool
Model Number: WDT970SAHV0
Main Symptom: Circulating pump not functioning, dishes not getting clean
What happens & when: Pump does not does not come on. I cleaned all tubes to spinning arms and pump impeller. Pump is new as well. Dishwasher cycles normally, fills/drains, but pump does not come on to make the 3 spin arms spin. Could it be the control board/relay? Thanks for your help

Error Code (if any): No error codes
Parts or tests already tried: replaced circulating pump
Photos / video link:

This could be the control board but might be something else. When the circulation pump should be running are you hearing a clicking noise? Does it do the same thing if you try running the diagnostic cycle?

Here’s the tech sheet if you don’t have it, that goes over the diagnostic cycle.

tech-sheet-w11427962-reva.pdf (1.2 MB)

I will look at this sheet and get back to you. Thank you.

I do hear something coming from the pump area, not a relay click.

I have done the diagnostic cycle. I get F6E4 Float switch? And just this morning I got F6E4 thenF5E1 then F-E- Should I replace the float and or the float switch. Would taking the door off and putting it back on to make sure it is seated properly help with F5E1? Thank you very much.

I’d check the continuity of the float switch W10734532 in the open and closed positions and make sure the lever for that switch is contacting it properly.

As for the F5E1, I wouldn’t worry about that yet. That’s a door code but it only means the door wasn’t latched within 4 seconds of start being pressed at some point, happens all the time.

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-switch-overfill-protec-wpw10195039-ap6016738.html

Ok, thanks for the help.

The float switch checks out fine, and lever as well.

Whats next please? Thank you.

Check the continuity of that door switch when the door is closed. When you ran the diagnostic mode did you allow it to try running the diagnostic cycle or stop it at after the error codes?

The first time I ran the diagnostic cycle, I did open the door mid cycle because I thought I heard the spinners working, which has been the issue. I have run the diagnostic cycle a few times since and have let it run through the complete cycle. It seems to run a short water/drain cycle at the end of the diagnostic cycle. Is that normal?

Where do I find the terminals to test door switch? Do I have to take the door off? Thank you.

Yup, that’s normal, it will drain at the end of the test cycle. If it was actually running that cycle and let water in then the door latch is fine.

The door latch is inside the door along with the control board, so for any testing there you will need to split the inner door from the outer.

Ok, I would think the latch is fine then. I am not sure where to look next. Can I erase the error codes and start over to maybe figure out why spinners aren’t spinning strong. I do believe I was getting water through them yesterday, just not enough pressure to spin them. I installed a new pump last week. Would the float system cause that symptom. Appreciate all the help, thank you.

Yeah, you can erase those codes, the float system and door latch should be fine. I’ve just got one more question on this, what was the part # of the part you replaced?

Pump #W11084656 and Board W11087206 Replaced both in the last 10 days. Thank you.

Ah, ok. So there’s only one thing left that this could be and it is one of the reasons I always suggest replacing the sump and motor together, the diverter motor W10537869 in the sump assembly. If that cannot shift the diverter properly then you won’t get good water spray from the arms and it will seem like the circ pump isn’t running or barely running. If you’re getting any kind of water from the arms then that pump has to be running.

The other problem with replacing the diverter motor by itself is that there is a seal between it and the sump assembly that is only available by purchasing the entire sump and motor assembly W11087376. If you replace the diverter motor by itself then you will need to reuse the original seal and sometimes that seal will leak after being reused.

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-motor-w10537869-ap5650272.html

Nice, so If I purchase what is in the link you sent Im good, or since Im going to be taking motors etc apart and have access is there something else I should replace while I am at it? Thanks so much.

That should be it. Before installing that diverter motor I’d eyeball the seal in the sump for any signs of wear or damage. If it is worn out then you’ll either have to replace the sump and motor assembly or try finding an approximate replacement for the seal at a hardware store or somewhere like that.

Awesome, will proceed with replacing diverter motor. Thanks again for quick response!!

I am not sure if that fixed it? Seems better. I ran Diagnostics cycle and I got F2E1 That does not show up on my tech sheet? Any ideas please.

Could I have a bad lower spray arm? Does it come apart? I would like to take separate it, but I think that will break it, correct? Water comes out all holes, just not sure it is turning with gears. How many gears are there in the arm showing? 2,3,4? I am getting water through it and the middle arm, can’t confirm top spray arm. Thank you.

Good morning there were no error codes when I performed the diagnostic test last night.