All wash type options are available on the control panel display, when I close the door the correct time for the option I chose is displayed, I press start, but the dishwasher never starts. If I press the start button twice a “2” is displayed and the dishwasher drains for 2 minutes. If I just press once (which is normally what is done) the “2H” is displayed (which is correct) but after about 4 or 5 minutes the display goes off. I assume this is some sort of time out. Is this a control board problem? I see many threads about control boards, but the problem usually seems to be that all options are not available, but I don’t have that exact problem. I’ve replaced the door lock control assembly in the past, but I just want to make sure that whatever I replace is the correct fix before ordering parts. Thanks!!! 
A Model Number might help find info on this unit
model number MDB9750AWS. Thanks!
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB9750AWS | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a service manual and a couple tech sheets
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022783.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16026391.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023227.pdf
2H is probably a 2 hour delay setting.
Try to reset the unit. Since the door switch does not kill power to the board you have to either unplug the unit or trip the breaker for about half an hour.
If that does not work try different cycles and the diags to try and narrow it down.
the “2H” means a 2 hour cycle (normal wash), short wash is “82”, etc. I did try unplugging the unit, but I only did for that few seconds…I will try unplugging and leave unplugged while I’m at work. Thanks for the clues… and the adventure begins! :rolleyes:
I left the unit unplugged all day. I still will not start. I removed the inner door and checked the connections on all of the electronics, and they all seem to be connected correctly. I followed the flow charts - but what is happening is not an option on any of the charts.
- select desired cycle
- close door
- the correct time for that cycle is displayed
- press start/cancel
- unit fills with water
- nothing else happens then the time display goes off after a few minutes
- press the start/cancel again the unit drains
It does sound like the control board is shot.
The reason I say that is it is giving you a strange readout and from what I can find on the board is does not include any self diagnostics.
I would recheck the connection from the keypad to the control board.
Perhaps clean the connectors with either electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be sure to let the solvent evaporate before reconnecting.
In order to eliminate the keypad as a possible cause you will have to check it with a meter. The key outputs are shown in the tech sheets. You are not only looking to see that the keys close but also that they are normally open, especially the delay key.
When I checked all of the connections I did not see any indication that any of them had come loose. Checking them with a meter is above my limits of competence, unfortuneately. The display readings are actually normal. I guess that it’s time to either get a new one or call a repair person. The unit was actually very expensive (over $800 originally), so a repair person is probably going to be the best option at this time. Thanks so much for your help.
Don’t call them yet.
Looks like on this unit the fill level is controlled by the float switch.
On most units it is just a safety device.
Could be the unit looks at the float switch at the start of a cycle if it sees that the switch is closed it decides there is a problem and times out.
Check that the float is not stuck in the up position.
Check the switch with a meter to be sure it is closing/opening.
Also could be a problem with your fill valve.
The unit may allow a certain amount of time for the float switch to activate (the tub is full indication) if it does not see this it times out.
Check that the water valve coil has continuity.
Check that the valve is getting power at the start of a cycle.
If both the above are OK then odds are high that the filter screen on the input side of the valve is clogged up with crud. Remove the valve and clean the screen.
I won’t be able to get to this until I get home this evening but some thoughts below on your suggestions…
Looks like on this unit the fill level is controlled by the float switch.
On most units it is just a safety device.
Could be the unit looks at the float switch at the start of a cycle if it sees that the switch is closed it decides there is a problem and times out.
Check that the float is not stuck in the up position. <what I think is the float does move up/down easily
Check the switch with a meter to be sure it is closing/opening. <I have no idea how to do this.
Also could be a problem with your fill valve.
The unit may allow a certain amount of time for the float switch to activate (the tub is full indication) if it does not see this it times out.
Check that the water valve coil has continuity. <:confused:
Check that the valve is getting power at the start of a cycle. <:confused:
If both the above are OK then odds are high that the filter screen on the input side of the valve is clogged up with crud. Remove the valve and clean the screen. <I believe that I will have to take the DW out of the cabinet to do this. It took me four hours to get it IN, so this might take a while (80 year old house and the flooring is uneven so the legs had to be adjust to accomidate as I slowly pushed it into place). This could be the cause since the water line on the street was replaced about 2 months ago and LOTS of crud came into the house lines aftwards. But there has been no indication of a problem with the unit filling up with water.
And the saga continues!.. 
On most units you can remove the water inlet valve without pulling the unit.
May require a stubby screw driver and perhaps a scraped knuckle.
Have a shallow pan and some paper towels handy to catch the water that will drip out.
I removed the toe kick and discovered that there has been a small leak in the right hand corner of the door causing water to seep under the hardwood parquet floors (which stop about 1/2 inch under the dishwasher and are the reason that the unit is so difficult to get in and out) and this caused the toe kick on the adjacent cabinets to rot out (another project for another day). I was able to remove the water pump and check the screen - and there was nothing in there, so I tried to run a cycle to see if I could hear anything. The water fills, then a click and the water shuts off, then an approx. 2 second hum like something is trying to start, then a pause for about 10 seconds, then another 2 second hum like it is trying again, then a pause for about 10 seconds, then a third attempt and then the display cuts off. So, what would be the next thing to click on after the water is in ? As I said earlier, I have no idea how or tools (other than a volt meter) to test any of the electrical components. I can then press the start button again and a “2” displays and the unit drains for 2 minutes then cuts off.
Sounds like the motor is trying to start.
Could be it is shot or jammed up
That’s what I was thinking, too. Is there a way to test if it is jammed and to unjam it? I guess that I might be DW shopping this weekend. :rolleyes:
Just open it up from inside the dishwasher, may be something as easy as a piece of glass etc. jamming the impeller.
I removed all of the racks and then all of the interior stuff until I got down to the round disk that comes up from below (I assume that was the impeller - its about 1/2 inch thick w/ vent like things on the side and about 6 inches across. The spray arm was hooked to it). I was about to turn it very easily. At this point I’m thinking that it would probably be easier to just replace the whole thing, especially since the door gasket is leaking, too. THanks SO MUCH for all of your suggestions!! I really appreciate it.
I was happy to find someone with the same problem, unhappy that he/she gave up before the solution was found.
I have a Maytag Quiet Series 300 MDBH970AWW with the same exact symptoms. Has anyone found the solution?
Alas, links to the Maytag tech sheets do not work 
Any hope of getting to that info? I have the same problem as mentioned above.
[SIZE=“3”]slmerritt[/SIZE]
What is your make and model number?
There are NO LIGHTS on the panel - it latches closed fine. Dead as a doornail. Worked as recently as last night pushing the start button (without any lights on the panel). The lights seem to have either blown out or just stopped working earlier in the year.
Is the board going. (Little by little - lights first, now the power to the machine?)
I have looked at a few previous posts but those folks had lights on their panel working, I do not.
Thanks for any help!