Kitchenaid Icemaker not working

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
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21

[quote=Gene;19229]Roy,

Assuming the “on-off” switch on the right side panel is “on”, check if the plastic tube coming into the ice maker is frozen (remove the ice maker first). Replace the water inlet valve if there is frost.

Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge. Switch the wires between the ice maker solenoid and the water dispenser solenoid. Depress the water release lever on the door and see if water will come to the ice maker.

If it would then the ice maker has to be replaced.

If it would not then the water inlet valve has to be replaced.

Gene.[/quote]

Gene:

I am having the exact same problems as Roy. Following your advice above, water does come when the water release is pushed.

I have two questions:
1.) Where do I find the complete part number? I am not sure I have the same model as Roy…
2.) Do I really need to replace the entire ice maker? It seems only the solenoid would need replacement…

Thank you for all your input here…if you ever have a question about a STIHL power tool, please let me repay you with my expertise.

22

Type the model number into the Search box or post it on the forum and we will help you. It is better to open a new own thread and post as much information on the problem as possible.

Gene.

23

I have a similar problem with a kenmore model 10656532400 as those posted above.

The icemaker does not make ice (obviously or I wouldn’t be here).

The 8 fingers on the icemaker are pointed straight down instead of being flush with the flat plastic piece that funnels the ice into the hopper on the door.

I tested the dispenser solonoid and water path by jumpering the solonoid with 110v. It pumps water when 110v is applied and water dispenses out the hose in the freezer cieling indicating there are no obstructions or problems with the water line.

The water dispenser in the door also works normally indicating no problems with the water supply or filter mechanism.

When I open the door and push the flap down to clear the optical path for the ice sensor the LED on the unit is on steady. When the optical path is blocked the LED blinks twice then is off for approximately 1/2 second, then blinks twice, then off 1/2 second, blink twice, etc.

Some of the diagnosis advice on here says that the icemaker must be bad if the fingers are pointed to six o’clock instead of 3 o’clock for another icemaker model. Is that true of my icemaker as well?

The Icemaker model number is 260W - 115V- 60Hz, IM #S 106 626663 LR 5010 06/15/04 S2

I don’t want to shotgun troubleshoot this thing, so I’m wondering how to test which part is bad, the optical sensor or the icemaker.

Thanks for any help,

Mike

24

Hi Mike,

Sounds like the problem is a bad ice maker. You can check it by performing the following test:

Pull the ice maker out but do not unplug its wire harness. Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between “N” & “L” test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.

If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points “T” & “H” to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

If there is no 120 VAC then remove the ice maker and check for continuity the black wire in the ice maker harness.

Post the results.

Gene.

25

[quote=Gene;115886]Hi Mike,

Sounds like the problem is a bad ice maker. You can check it by performing the following test:

Pull the ice maker out but do not unplug its wire harness. Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between “N” & “L” test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.

Checked - no voltage present between test points. I verified that the icemaker was turned on and the optical sensor was not obstructed. I removed the gear drive and cover from the icemaker and checked that 110v was getting through the harness. It showed 108v from black to white at the termination of the harness. I put the gear drive and cover back on, still no voltage N-L

If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points “T” & “H” to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Tried this anyway, no movement from the motor

If there is no 120 VAC then remove the ice maker and check for continuity the black wire in the ice maker harness.

I tested continuity across the harness through the heating resistor in the ice tray, it was fluctuating from 1.5 to 2.5 ohms, probably due to my meter leads. Checked voltage through the harness, 110v black -white and black - green, as expected.

Post the results.

Gene.[/quote]

Additionally, the icemake I’ve got looks nearly identical to the one shown for part number AP4318635. The only difference is the previously noted 185w vs. 260w power rating.

When I type my fridge model number into your parts search, I get a different icemaker that has a wire loop on it to determine the ice level in the ice hopper. This is obviously not the icemake I need as I’ve got the optical sensor in the wall of the freezer to determine ice level.

Is there a difference in operation from the 185w to the 260w unit?

26

Mike,

What is the part number of the ice maker you bought?

There is no exact match for your model number in the APP site database. That’s why you got a different ice maker. The correct APP part number for the ice maker you needed is AP3182733

[quote]…Is there a difference in operation from the 185w to the 260w unit?..[/quote]I do not think so.

Gene.

27

[quote=Gene;116108]Mike,

What is the part number of the ice maker you bought?

There is no exact match for your model number in the APP site database. That’s why you got a different ice maker. The correct APP part number for the ice maker you needed is AP3182733

I do not think so.

Gene.[/quote]

I didn’t buy one yet, when I got the picture of the wrong unit I held off. Now that I’ve done the troubleshooting and you concur that’s the problem I guess I’ll be buying the one you posted the link to. I’ll post back and let you know how it turns out when it shows up.

28

Hello there Gene,
Your posts have been most helpfull already, Thank you!
This “ice maker not working” is on a Kitchenaid Superba Model KSRG25FKSS16 - My trouble shooting has determined that the optical ice sensor is working fine. By jumping L to V the water valve did open and water was flowing. The big questions begin when jumping T to H there is no motor movement and when looking for 120 V between N and L there was no current shown? There is power between white and black in the wiring harness coming out of the freezer wall.
Suggestions or part #'s please?
Thanks again,
Gary

29

Gary,

Sounds like the ice maker itself is the culprit.

-The ice maker AP3182733

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRG25FKSS16 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

30

[quote=Gene;240051]Gary,

Sounds like the ice maker itself is the culprit.

-The ice maker AP3182733

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRG25FKSS16 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.[/quote]

Thank you sir,
Part is ordered and I will let you know!
Gary

31

[quote=gboydfishin;240065]Thank you sir,
Part is ordered and I will let you know!
Gary[/quote]

Hello again,
Ice maker installed and LIFE IS GOOD.
Thanks again,
Gary

32

You are welcome Gary. I’m glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.

33

Hi I have the Kitchenaid Model KSRP25F and my Icemaker is not working. The LED light will blink twice quick and repeat itself help please!!:slight_smile:

34

The model number you posted is incomplete. Verify and repost it please.

Gene.

35

Sorry not a repair guy, found this number on the inside of the refrigerator door could not find any other numbers, any help would be thankful.

36

Hopefully the Model Number Locator will help you.

Gene.

37

Hello,

I have a KitchenAid, KSRP25FNSS00 with ice and water through the door. Water through the door works fine. The ice maker stopped producing ice 2 days ago. Defrosted the water inlet tube, as I have had to do a couple of times before over the past 5 years of having this refrigerator. Plus, it did one time discharge water, which caused the ice tray to be overfilled, plus froze. Thawed and removed all ice from the ice tray and let the maker do it’s thing. Still no ice. The LED status, will flash twice, pause, and repeat with the door open and flipper in “open” position. With the flipper closed, the LED is on solid. Ice ejector fingers are pointed almost straight up.

In reading all the earlier posts here, I suspect that it’s either an optics unit, or the ice maker unit itself. Or if I’m missing something else to look at, or check, please advise.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

W.D.

38

W.D.

Most likely the problem is a bad water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRP25FNSS00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

39

[quote=gboydfishin;240003]Hello there Gene,
Your posts have been most helpfull already, Thank you!
This “ice maker not working” is on a Kitchenaid Superba Model KSRG25FKSS16 - My trouble shooting has determined that the optical ice sensor is working fine. By jumping L to V the water valve did open and water was flowing. The big questions begin when jumping T to H there is no motor movement and when looking for 120 V between N and L there was no current shown? There is power between white and black in the wiring harness coming out of the freezer wall.
Suggestions or part #'s please?
Thanks again,
Gary[/quote]

hi gene i have the same ice maker and when i test n to L i have 7 volts ac cont tested harness is good test harness from freezer wall 106 volts ac any ideas?

40

Make sure the shut off arm is down. If it’s not the issue, replace the ice maker.

Gene.