My Kitchenaid side-by-side icemaker stopped working
Water dispenser in door works fine
Researched this on the net and figured inflow water line was frozen so I got hairdryer and heated up the little black tube where the water comes in (see photo) but didnt work
Dont know where the waterline runs so dont know where else to heat assuming thats the problem and not some thing else
6 months ago similar thing happened but it just started working spontaneously
Open the freezer door, press in the emitter flaper door (on the left side) to unblock the optics beam and view the diagnostics “status” LED on the right side.
Post you findings and the complete model number of the fridge.
I have the same Kitchenaid Frig. about 2.5 years old. Had problems with the Icemaker not ejecting ice from the tray, I found out that the peg on the "timing gear was cracked. After I glued that it never really worked after that even though I couldn’t find anything else wrong.
I ordered a whole new unit from you guys and installed it yesterday but it hasn’t done anything in last 12 hrs.
The replacement Part Number is W10122502 the tag has 185w-115-60hz IM# mmap 106w10122502 The old unit has 260-115-60hz IM# S 106 626663 om it. It looks like it is a different wattage. Any Suggestions??
I have the same problem as jayconner. No ice is being made but water flows just fine from the door. My fridge is a kitchenaid, model # KSRG25FKWH17 . It’s about 1 1/2 years old. I’ve tried the heat the little black rubber water inlet tube with a hairdryer apporach and unfortunately, that seems to have had no efffect. The LED status light is off when the door is opened. When I “unblock the optics beam”, the led is stays off.
Any recommendation on a next step to take would be appreciated.
Thanks, Sam
The Frig Is a Kitchenaid KSRP25FNSS00. The four pronged flat plug that plugs into the icemaker doesn’t seem to have the right voltage coming out of it , I measure 5.5 volts Ac and think that it should be 115 volt Ac.
I think that’s why neither the old icemaker or the replacement will work.
Do you know where the four prong plug get it’s power from? Is it from the main circuit board at the top of the frig side compartment? I looked at it but no obvious burns or defect in the board.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Matt
Open the freezer door, press in the emitter flapper door (on the left side) to unblock the optics beam and view the diagnostics “status” LED on the right side.
Just thought I’d report back what my problem was. Turns out, I needed a new motor module (AP3177342). As it turns out, my wife bought an extended warranty and the module was replaced at no cost. Thanks for trying to help Gene, I appreciate it.
Open the freezer door, press in the emitter flapper door (on the left side) to unblock the optics beam and view the diagnostics “status” LED on the right side.
Did you run this test?
What is the result?
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Hi Gene,
Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you… I’ve been out of state commercial fishing in Alaska. Anyway I back now and optics Flash twice and then repeats when the flapper is open and is a steady on when the flapper is depressed to unblock beam.
Neither the old icemaker or the new one move at all when plugged in to 4 prong plug but the old one will move if I hook 110 volt up to it. Also the freeze is cold enough to make ice.
[COLOR=#333333]Hi Matt,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Did you use the old wire harness for the new ice maker or the new one?[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Gene.[/COLOR]
My Kitchenaid ice maker also stopped working. I have tried to warm the water inlet with a blow dryer in case it was frozen shut. This did not fix the problem. When I open the freezer and close the flapper door on the left, the status LED on the right is dark. When I unplug and plug the fridge in, and open the freezer, the LED blinks 4 times red, then pause, then blinks 4 more times and then goes dark. My model is KSRU25FKWH01 mfg. date 12/01.
Gene, I received and changed the optic boards on both sides. Now the LED light blinks twice when the door is opened. When the flapper door is closed, the LED light stays on solid. No water flows into the ice tray. The outside water dispenser works fine.
Any suggestions?
Again the model number is KSRU25FKWH01
Assuming the “on-off” switch on the right side panel is “on”, check if the plastic tube coming into the ice maker is frozen (remove the ice maker first). Replace the water inlet valve if there is frost.
Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge. Switch the wires between the ice maker solenoid and the water dispenser solenoid. Depress the water release lever on the door and see if water will come to the ice maker.
If it would then the ice maker has to be replaced.
If it would not then the water inlet valve has to be replaced.
Gene,
After successfully changing the optic board, I have used your troubleshooting advice on switching wires from water and icemaker solenoids. The result was NO water flow to the icemaker when the water release was pressed. I changed the water inlet valve. Unfortunately, I still have no water going into the icemaker. I do hear, (what I believe to be water attempting to go into the icemaker) but no water and no ice still. I tried the trouble shooting method again with the new water inlet valve, with the wire switching but there is still no water flow to the icemaker when the water release is pressed. Is it possible for the water tube to become clogged from the water inlet valve too the icemaker? I really do not believe that there is ice buildup in this tube, as I have tried repeatedly to melt any possible ice build up from this tube inside the freezer. Is it possible or recommended to try and blow compressed air through this freezer tube to try and dislodge a clog? Again, the water worksfine, just no water to the icemaker.
Hi Gene,
I removed the ice maker as you indicated, inspected the water feeding tube on the cieling of the freezer box and it was clear or any ice buildup or ice obstruction. I again, attempted to melt any ice, (that may be up inside the tube) with no luck. I also blew low pressure compressed air through the tube (disconnected at the water inlet valve) and no air came out the inlet valve inside the freezer.
