Initially the machine would machine randomly stop at the drain cycle and buzz. If shut off, it would restart after a wait of 30 minutes or so, or if unnoticed, it might eventually restart on its own.
Then it began hanging at other points of the wash cycle, always with a buzzing sound. The machine might have to sit overnight before it would resume.
Next it began hanging without the buzzing, and it became harder to get to restart.
I replaced the lid switch, checked the drain hose for obstruction and verified that water would run through the pump (by running water into the inlet; now the buzzing is louder (seems to come from the area of the timer), and the machine will fill but not agitate or drain, even after an overnight wait.
If the selector knob is moved to a pause location, such as just before it should begin draining, the timer emits a faint ticking sound and after a short time advances normally to the drain cycle, whereupon it hangs and begins buzzing, so it seems as if the timer is functioning properly.
Now it’s not restarting even after an overnight cool down - complete motor failure? A motor reset exercise had no effect. Odd that it reached this point of malfunction immediately after replacing the lid switch (which is working) and rinsing out the pump.
Maybe time for a new washer, but it’s only 26 years young
If you can get to the timer and test it for voltage while the failure is happening in a normal cycle, that’ll help narrow things down.
For the start winding, check voltage between the red wire on the timer and the yellow wire.
For the run winding, check between the blue wire and the white wire with a black stripe. If that doesn’t show voltage, then test from the blue wire to the metal frame instead.
Do you get voltage at these points, or is one of them not showing any? Also, what happens if you remove the drain pump from the motor and try to start it?
Since this is a direct drive system, the drain pump can stop it from agitating and spinning since the drain pump is connected directly to the motor drive shaft. What this means is that the drain pump is blocked up and replacing the pump is the best way to get it up and running properly. If leaving the drain pump gets the unit to reliably go into a spin mode, there won’t be a need to test the voltage output. WP3363394 Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Pump | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock
OK. I installed the new pump, and now it agitates and spins, but still won’t drain, even after an hour’s rest. The buzzing isn’t nearly as loud, for whatever that’s worth.
As this is a direct drive washer, when the basket spins, the drain pump should be spinning in a drain rotation when properly secured to the drive motor. Is it possible that there is a clog in one of the hoses?
I checked the outlet hose, but I’m not certain if I probed the inlet (I think I did). The problem initially was intermittent, though, and when it did work, the outflow was of normal volume. I would think an obstruction would restrict the flow?
Is the washer not draining at all or is it that the clothes are sopping wet? An obstruction would restrict the flow and stop water from draining completely.
