No. (Maybe after another overnight wait).
The voltage test mentioned previously would be necessary to do at this point. It would need to be done during the state of failure. If there is 120 Volts AC and the motor does not start, it is likely that the capacitor is the issue. This part can be tested for capacitance after it has been discharged, and it should measure between 324-389 uf. The following link can be used to view the capacitor. WP8572720 Capacitor | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock
Super awkward, so I’m not totally confident in the results, but I saw no voltage between red and yellow, and none between blue and white w/ black stripe. The first time I tried blue to the cabinet, I got 30V, but I couldn’t repeat this. I wasn’t sure that I was able to get the probes far enough into the connector to get a good contact, so I jumpered the lid switch and measured the voltage between red and yellow at the motor, where there was easier access and better visibility. There I again got zero volts, but the tub began to spin.
As the motor did spin, it would have been receiving voltage. Aside from discharging the capacitor and testing it for capacitance, the most likely failure is the timer not making proper contact. WP3951769 Timer | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock
The cap is labeled 270-324MFD and measures 274µf.
Yes the pump should be turning in the correct draining mode when the washer is spinning.
Coin between the tubs causing a restriction?
Ball of lint causing a restriction?
Kinked hose?
Any water drain out if you lay the drain hose down on the floor?
jeff sr.