The ice maker in my Whirlpool ED2PHEXNT00 side-by-side stopped producing ice. I checked the obvious (arm stuck, ice jammed, etc.), and replaced the water filter just to be sure. I do get water from the door dispenser. I checked the old water inlet valve, and read approx. 200 ohms across the terminals of the valve for the water dispenser, but nothing across the terminals of the ice dispenser, so I assumed the valve was bad. I purchased a new one, installed it, and still no ice. I checked the new valve, and found the same readings (200 ohms across one terminal, nothing across the other). Is it possible that the new valve is defective, or should I check something else?
Chrck to see if the fill tube for the icemaker is frozen. Let us know what you find.
Nat
No, the fill tube is not frozen.
You can always apply 120 volts to the valve to verify it is bad either by force cycleing the icemaker or make up a test cord with a female spade connector on each lead hook it to the valve and plug it into the wall
You can check the ice maker and the water valve from the front of the ice maker. You can find the complete instructions from one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/8566-water-ice-maker-quit-working.html
Post the results.
Gene.
theres also a field data sheet tucked behind the grill with detailed instructions
Sorry for the delay in posting results. I found a troubleshooting guide for this particular model, and I performed the tests in the guide. I pulled the front panel off of the icemaker module, and checked for voltage across the terminals for the thermostat (T & H), and there was 120 VAC to the module. I then unplugged the fridge, and checked for resistance between the following terminals:
L&H (heater): 100 ohms (manual says should be 65-80)
L&M (motor): 3400 ohms (manual says 4000)
V&N (water valve): 200 ohms (manual says 300)
I then placed a jumper across terminals L & N to initiate the cycle. The icemaker did not cycle following this. Do I conclude that the icemaker module is defective?
you jumper “T” & “H” to force cycle
Sorry, I mis-spoke. I did jumper across T & H (not L & N), in attempt to force the icemaker to cycle.
The ice maker module is bad but I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker instead of module to make the repair more dependable.
- The part number for the ice maker is [COLOR=#0066cc]AP2984633[/COLOR]
Gene.
Just curious if replacing the unit’s faulty piece with the above mentioned replacement part cured the problem. My parents refrigerator is doing the same thing with the same attempts to fix the problem. Also, is the module the same as the solenoid? Will the above recommended replacement part include the solenoid/module? Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Thanks for any replies.
What exactly is wrong with your parents refrigerator?
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
Gene.
It has the same problems with the other unit mentioned earlier in the thread. Everything works fine on the appliance, except for the icemaker. It will no longer produce ice. The water filter was replaced approximately 1 month ago. There was no problem with the unit until about 2 weeks after the change. The model number is ED2PHEXNT00. I checked online and found this thread. I believe it may be suffering from the same problem…or, at least I think. Thanks for your response!
Have you measured the temperature in the freezer? It suppose to be bellow 12°F.
If the temperature is fine, remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between “N” & “L” test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points “T” & “H” to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL ED2PHEXNT00 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.