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The water quit going to the icemaker. I think its the Dual water inlet valve, What do you think? Related

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Old 06-04-2008, 05:07 PM
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Question Water to ice maker quit working
Model Number: RS22AQXKQ00   Brand: Roper   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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The water quit going to the icemaker. I think its the Dual water inlet valve, What do you think?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2008, 03:27 PM
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The first thing I would check is the temperature in the freezer (it suppose to be bellow 12F) and the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage.

If there is a water filter - how old is it?

Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.

If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post the results.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper refrigerator Model RS22AQXKQ00

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Last edited by Gene : 07-21-2009 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:46 AM
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Gene
I'm also having problems with my icemaker on my Whirlpool sr1155811 side-by-side. One night the freezer door didn't close all the way. There was a lot of water on the floor - since then my icemaker hasn't worked.

I tried your advice for replacing the water filter and testing the N & L for 120VAC. The T & H test didn't move anything, but I think it's because the ice tray is frozen solid.

I think the water feeding tube is blocked, but have tried a hair dryer unfreeze it. Are there any other tips for unblocking the water feeding tube?

Thanks
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:48 AM
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Hello ,
I back, I just checktest piont between N and L they are 120 v and short piont T H to run the moter , yes , I Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove and the moter still run for half more revolution then stop but water still not come out . What next I do ? How we know inlet vale work or not ,show me how to test .
Thanks for help
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoc101 View Post
Hello ,
I back, I just checktest piont between N and L they are 120 v and short piont T H to run the moter , yes , I Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove and the moter still run for half more revolution then stop but water still not come out . What next I do ? How we know inlet vale work or not ,show me how to test .
Thanks for help
Remove the wires from the water valve and repeat the test with the jumper between the "T" & "H" test points. Measure the voltage between the water valve wires during this test. You probably will need somebody to help you by removing the jumper wire.

If you'll see the meter reading 120VAC for about 5-7 seconds at the end of a revolution then the water valve is bad.

If you would not see 120VAC reading at all then the ice maker is the culprit.

Gene.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoc101 View Post
Hello ,
I back, I just checktest piont between N and L they are 120 v and short piont T H to run the moter , yes , I Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove and the moter still run for half more revolution then stop but water still not come out . What next I do ? How we know inlet vale work or not ,show me how to test .
Thanks for help
Did you find a resolution? This is my experience as well.

I defrosted the unit and it seemed the tray would then fill with water, but, wouldn't eject ice into the bin (no sounds, either).

Test points show 120V, but, shorting T H doesn't result in any movement from the motor (should I hear any sort of sound?).

What do you suppose has failed; or is the tray frozen in some way that it can't eject ice? I've put some warm water on the ice tray to no effect.

Thanks

J
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BroJoe View Post
Did you find a resolution? This is my experience as well.

I defrosted the unit and it seemed the tray would then fill with water, but, wouldn't eject ice into the bin (no sounds, either).

Test points show 120V, but, shorting T H doesn't result in any movement from the motor (should I hear any sort of sound?).

What do you suppose has failed; or is the tray frozen in some way that it can't eject ice? I've put some warm water on the ice tray to no effect.

Thanks

J
Sounds like the ice maker has gone bad. If you need the correct part number for the ice maker then post the complete model number of the refrigerator.

Gene.
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Sounds like the ice maker has gone bad. If you need the correct part number for the ice maker then post the complete model number of the refrigerator.

Gene.
Hi Gene, thanks;
It's a 10655502400, Kenmore.

Joe
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:34 PM
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Default Whirlpool GD5RHAXNB00 - Ice maker stopped working

2005 or 2006 Whirlpool GD5RHAXNB00 - Ice maker stopped working

The ice maker stopped working after a week long power outage in January of this year and the first thing I found when I finally got around to diagnosing it was an open coil on the ice maker water inlet valve which I replaced and tested with an external 120 V source and when energized water flowed from the ice maker tube, but still no normal operation. The light on the infrared receiver is on solid with the slider in ON position and it flashes with the slider in the OFF position.

I removed the ice makers motor head cover and measured 107 volts at the N and L test ports (and on the black and white Ice maker plug leads), but when I inserted a jumper in the H and T ports with the ice maker connected, the motor did not run and the N-L voltage went to zero.

I removed the motor head and applied 120V from an external source to the motor leads and it ran through a full rotation. I WD40d the motor head plug and internal pin contacts and reassembled, but it still does not turn with a H to T jumper.

When I removed the motor head cover the first time, a little piece of white plastic 1/8"wide, 1/16"thick, and 3/8"long with one rounded end and one angled/broken end fell out, but I can't see a mating surface on any of the white plastic arms inside. All the inside contacts and circuit strips looked clean and bright.

Suggestions for further testing would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:01 PM
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Looks like the problem is a bad ice maker thermostat. I would not waste time and money to fix the old ice maker because it can be something else wrong with it and rate of success on such repairs is very low. A whole new ice maker is much better idea.

- The ice maker Part number: AP3182733

Part number: AP3182733



Here are the breakdown diagram and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GD5RHAXNB00 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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