Hi, we’ve been having the same problem described in this thread with our Viking oven not heating up fast enough. We had it serviced a few years back and the guy replaced the ignitors and charged us $350, so doing it myself sounds like the right plan.
I opened the oven and removed the bottom panel to expose the ignitors just to see what the job looks like. And it looks fairly simple to remove and replace those ignitors.
However, I turned the oven on to observe what is happening. Both ignitors turned on and started glowing pretty well. After several minutes the flames finally lit on one side, but not the other. And even the flame that lit would die out and then restart, almost like it had a bad gas flow.
Is this a sympton of bad ignitors or is there possibly another problem I should look at?
If the igniter does not light the flame within 60-70 seconds then the igniter is bad.
Instead of paying to Viking very high price for the new igniters, you can use any flat igniter made by GE, Whirlpool or Frigidaire. They all are identical beside prices.
I recently replace my oven ignitor and found that getting the ignitor wires through the back of the oven was a bit difficult. I ended up fishing a guide wire through the back to guide the new ignitor wires back through. So here’s my tip:
BEFORE removing the old ignitor from the oven, tape a 12/14(ish) gauge wire to the ends of the old ignitor wires at the back of the oven. Pull the old ignitor out, pulling the guide wire into the oven. Remove the tape from the old ignitor wires. Tape the new ignitor wires to the guide wire. Slowly pull the guide wire out of the oven (from the back) and your new ignitor wires should come along easily.
I have a Kitchen Aid ([MODEL]KGRT500BAL[/MODEL]) so your milage may vary. Hope this helps.
I have Hotpoint oven that suddenly the automatic ignitor stopped lighting up the burners. The oven burners work fine, when I light them up with a lighter.
When I turned the burners on, I can hear the clicks of the ignitor but does not light up the burners.
Hotpoint Gas Oven
Model No. RGB628GEV4AD
I’m not sure if the problem is related to the burners or the ignitor or the burners. Any help and/or suggestion are appreciated
[quote=flyingbird;176889]I have Hotpoint oven that suddenly the automatic ignitor stopped lighting up the burners. The oven burners work fine, when I light them up with a lighter.
When I turned the burners on, I can hear the clicks of the ignitor but does not light up the burners.
Hotpoint Gas Oven
Model No. RGB628GEV4AD
I’m not sure if the problem is related to the burners or the igniter or the burners. Any help and/or suggestion are appreciated[/quote]
The oven igniter does not click because this is a glow coil type of igniter. The top burners igniters do click and spark.
What exactly is wrong with your range? Are you having problems with the surface burners or with the oven?
Does anyone know if the instructions for replacing the GE ignitor be simialr on a Kithcen Aid ignitor. I have a Kithcen Aid range Model KGST307Hbl4 and just ordered ignitor number AP3008600.
Thanks
Thank you so much for this thread. I’ve been all over the internet trying to figure out how to replace the igniter on my GE Spectra Range. I couldn’t find anything that told me how to actually take the old igniter off until I found this thread.
I did have to make a trip to Home Depot to get new connectors and was talked into buying a stripping/crimping tool for $11, but now I having a working oven for the cost of parts and a tool. Yay!
Thank you so much for helping this silly girl feel like she can fix stuff in her condo.
[quote=halah;229357]Thank you so much for this thread. I’ve been all over the internet trying to figure out how to replace the igniter on my GE Spectra Range. I couldn’t find anything that told me how to actually take the old igniter off until I found this thread.
I did have to make a trip to Home Depot to get new connectors and was talked into buying a stripping/crimping tool for $11, but now I having a working oven for the cost of parts and a tool. Yay!
Thank you so much for helping this silly girl feel like she can fix stuff in her condo.[/quote]
[COLOR=#333333]Hi. I have a GE Spectra XL44 model number JGB920BEC4BB. I originally though that my bake igniter had bit the dust because my oven takes about 35-45 min to preheat to 350/375. In trying to diagnose the issue I removed the bottom cover of the oven to expose the igniter and burner. I then preheated the oven to 400 and it reached the target temp in about 10 min. I then replace the bottom cover and again tried to preheat to 400 and it took over 45 min. Could the bottom cover be affecting the igniter/burner in some way? I also noticed that without the cover on the burner fired up in about 30 sec. With it back on it took over 2 min. Coincidence or could it be related in some way? I’m ready to buy a new igniter to see if that fixes it. What do you guys think?[/COLOR]
Before ordering the igniter I would inspect the burner for and clogged or burned through holes. If there any, order the burner. It comes with the igniter.
The burner holes don’t appear to be clogged and I don’t see any visible holes elsewhere along the burner tube. Last night, while observing the burner without the bottom cover on I did noticed that the flame was even along the entire length of the burner, on both sides. I did not see any areas that were not lit, though I did notice that the flame started out fairly large and then after a few moments (maybe 30 sec after it lit) decreased in size for the remainder of the preheating. Do you think a new igniter would be the next logical step?
There are a few venting holes in the oven floor. Try to check the flame looking through those holes, without removing the oven floor. Post the results.
I have a Hotpoint model RGB628GEJ1AD range. I received the ignitor, but no wire nuts. Should they have been included? Secondly I removed 4 screws, 2 on the ignitor and 2 on the back wall of the ove and the ignitor is now loose. However I have hardly any slack in the wires. Do I need to pull the range out from the wall? I assume if I do I need to disconnect the gas line? Lastly are ceramic wire nuts something a local hardware store might stock?
Thanks,
Chris
[quote=Admin / APP Team;3140]Correct
Yes, the wire nuts included are hi-temp resistant ceramic wire nuts.[/quote]
Not only was my ignitor bad, I had pinched wire that was shorting to the chassis just above the door near the burner controls.
Thanks for the part, but I am a little disapointed no one responded to my above post and I had to go to a local applicance store for the ceramic wire nuts. The counter guy said the ignitor should ship with them, so this looks like an oversight from the supplier or Appliance Parts Pros.