Help - instructions to install oven igniter

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
21

Original Oven And Broiler Would Not Light
Model #jgbc20gev3wh
No Prior Troubleshooting

22

The first thing I would do is check for 120V to the igniter while the oven thermostat calls for heat.

If there is no 120V, check the wires then bypass the thermostat and see if it works. If it does - replace the oven thermostat.

Gene.

23

I am replacing the flat 3 3/4" igniter in my GE JGSP28 gas range. The one I bought locally does not have the matching snap connector. I forsee a problem because if I cut off the in-place connector half, there will not be enough wire sticking through the whole in the back of the oven to make a proper connection with the wire nuts.
Question: This is not a genuine replacement. They said it was a Kelvinator part. Is it possible that I could obtain a replacement that has the matching connector half? It would make life a lot easier.

24

The part number for the GE oven igniter with the quick disconnect plug is AP3202322

Gene.

25

[QUOTE=Gene;25688]The part number for the GE oven igniter with the quick disconnect plug is AP3202322

Gene.[/QUOTE]
The part number for the GE oven igniter with the quick disconnect plug is AP3202322

Gene, Thanks for the prompt reply to my email of 6-28-08. You posted a photo of a flat ignitor in your 9-27-07 reply #3 to lrg51. It looks exactly like the part I need to replace. I checked the details and found the p/n is Maytag AP205873. In your reply you gave me p/n AP3202322. Am I missing something? Are they the same parts with different p/n?

Also, I asked if the igniter would come with a connector halve to match the quick connector halve on my GE model JGSP28WEK2WW. Please advise.

26

The igniter with the part number AP3202322 made by GE. The igniter with the part number AP205873 made by Maytag. They look very similar but I’m not sure if their plugs are identical. I would recommend to use the igniter made by GE .

Gene.

27

I have 115 volts comming to the ignitor and gas valve. I replaced both the ignitor and gas valve as both were bad. After installing both new parts the oven came on and worked like it should. Then the next time I went to use it again it would not work. Still have correct power to both. Pretty expensive parts for one time use.:confused:

Kenmore gas range…Model 911.7199180…Ser.# 0F60407

28

ronlovell,

Please describe how did you measure voltage to these parts.

Did you check them for continuity?

Gene.

29

Hi,
I have the same problem with my GE XJ44, Model Number: JGBS23BEA2AD.
The Igniter (Glowbar) Will glow, but there is no gas flowing to the burner, and the oven will not work.
I read that most likely it is a faulty igneter.
Is it really bad, even if it glows? Or perhaps it is a bad valve?
How can I be certain what part needs to be replaced?
Do you know what are the propper P/N’s for the Igniter and the valve?
Thanks,
Barry

30

Hi Barry,

Most likely the problem is a weak igniter.

You can learn how the oven igniter works from one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/1897-oven-wont-lite.html

If you want to be certain then you have to measure the current drawn by the igniter. It should be more than 3.2 amps.

Here are the break down diagrams for the GE range Model JGBS23BEA2AD

Gene.

31

Hi – I have a GE XL44 Gas oven/range…and need to replace the oven gas igniter. I removed the oven floor and BUT cannot see how to remove the flame spreader (plate sitting under the gas tube) so I can remove old igniter (which is attached to a gas tube)… can anyone offer a suggestion? When I removed several screws around the perimeter – the spreader sank down about 1/2 inch but can’t move it after that… HELP?!

The wires hang down behind the bottom drawer – so I can get to them – but will need to cut and use wire nuts to connect new igniter since connectors are different configuration – will that be an oprational problem.

32

[QUOTE=Dan Burns;58514]…cannot see how to remove the flame spreader (plate sitting under the gas tube)…

…The wires hang down behind the bottom drawer – so I can get to them – but will need to cut and use wire nuts to connect new igniter since connectors are different configuration – will that be an oprational problem.[/QUOTE]

Dan,

This is not the flame spreader. The flame spreader is on top of the burner. Do not remove this panel. Instead remove the whole burner together with the igniter, replace the igniter and reinstall the burner.

You do have to cut the old igniter wires and splice the new one.

Gene.

33

Hi, I wanted to make sure what part I would need for my oven as the it does not work but the stove tope does. I checked to make sure the Pressure Regulator was open as it mentioned in the Troubleshooter. My guess is the Igniter but without any way to test it How can I be sure. I’ve been looking at the diagrams and from what I can see it could be any of the following parts, Pressure Regulator, Thermostat, Valve Safety ASM, or Igniter and since the cheapest of these 4 parts is about $50 and the most expensive is $125, I do not want to throw good money away if I can get some help in the matter. I do appreciate any help I can get as this was completely sudden used it Monday and we had no problem but we went to use it on Tuesday and it would not lite.

34

Bob219,

If you would like to avoid guessing and replace only a part which is really bad then you have to invest some money and buy a simple multimeter to perform some troubleshooting. Let us know when you ready.

Gene.

35

I’m also having to replace the oven igniter on the XL44. My range is a Hotpoint RGB745WEA1WW. When I remove the oven floor I can easily see the igniter attached to the burner but I can’t get to the two attaching bolts. Removing the one screw at the front of the burner doesn’t help much. What is the next step to remove the burner?

36

plink49,

Remove the bottom drawer. The Bake burner is mounted to the rear panel with the two screws besides the front screw.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Hotpoint range Model RGB745WEA1WW

Gene.

37

Thanks Gene,

Other than the fact that whoever designed the location of the mounting bracket for the burner should be put in front of a tribunal, the replacement of the igniter went very smoothly. The bracket with the 2 screws with hex heads is where you can’t get a socket or wrench to undo them and took me 3 times a long to remove/replace that bracket than the remainder of the job. I wound up replacing the screws with stainless steel sheet metal screws with phillips heads so they can be removed at least a little bit easier the next time.

This forum is great!

38

We are glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.

39

I have a Maytag Gemini Gas range MGR6772WH. In order to replace the ignitor, do I need to pull out the range and access the connections from the back? Thank you…

Carrie

40

Hi Carrie,

No, you do not have to do it. It is pretty good access from the front of the range.

Gene.