Help - instructions to install oven igniter

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
1

Hi Guys,

Purchased a round igniter for GE Spectrum gas oven. Would appreciate instructions to stall. Looks like a lot of disassembly to do it.

Thanks in advance…

2

Hi,

It’s usually pretty simple. Start by turning power off to the oven - unplug it or disconnect power at the circuit breaker. Open oven door, remove all racks, then remove oven floor panel (it might be secured with two bolts or clips on the back side). Remove the flame spreader (one nut). Now you have the oven burner and igniter exposed. If the new plug differs from the old, cut off the plug and use ceramic wire nuts (should be supplied with igniter) to connect the wires. Don’t shake the igniter - the coil is very fragile. Once the igniter is replaced make sure the wires are connected securely. Put everything back the way it was and test the oven.

Below are the two most popular oven igniters: flat bar igniter and round igniter.

UPDATE: We now have a step-by-step video on how to replace an oven igniter (either flat or round):

AP4012072 - this is by far the most commonly used oven igniter. Includes all necessary pieces to replace longer ceramics. Size: 3-3/4" long. Fits Maytag, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Tappan, Jenn Air, GE (flat bar only), Sears Kenmore (flat bar only), even some Thermador cooktops and Viking ovens.

AP3104565 - this igniter replaces any round oven igniter. Common oven brands to use a round igniter include GE, Roper, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Caloric, Modern Maid, and a few others.

Hope this helps.

3

[QUOTE=Admin / APP Team;3130]Hi,

It’s usually pretty simple. Start by turning power off to the oven - unplug it or disconnect power at the circuit breaker. Open oven door, remove all racks, then remove oven floor panel (it might be secured with two bolts or clips on the back side). Remove the flame spreader (one nut). Now you have the oven burner and igniter exposed. If the new plug differs from the old, cut off the plug and use ceramic wire nuts (should be supplied with igniter) to connect the wires. Don’t shake the igniter - the coil is very fragile. Once the igniter is replaced make sure the wires are connected securely. Put everything back the way it was and test the oven.

Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]
OK… This sounds REALLY simple.

So when I cut the wires to the old igniter… I only need to leave a few inches of wire exposed to connect with wire nuts. The wire nuts that came with the unit must be able to handle oven temperatures…

Thanks again…

4

[QUOTE]I only need to leave a few inches of wire exposed to connect with wire nuts.[/QUOTE]Correct

[QUOTE]The wire nuts that came with the unit must be able to handle oven temperatures…[/QUOTE]Yes, the wire nuts included are hi-temp resistant ceramic wire nuts.

5

I just pruchased an apartment which has a caloric gas oven range(old one)- The rear right gas stove works when iginated- all the other 3 stove have to be manually lit, I have not tried the oven/broiler which at present does not work. When trying to light the non-working stove(3 and oven) there is no clicking sound of ignitor, one the working stove has the clicking sound- Can you help advice. Thank you

6

In order to provide most accurate advise we need the complete model number of the range.

Gene.

7

I just moved in to an apartment which had an Caloric RLS 359-UL oven Range.
The right rear stove is the only stove that works with the ignitor- the rest can work if lit manually.The igntor’s click on the working side is very faint(low click sound and not consistant). In looking under the top hood the ignitiors( both right and left) look kind of worn out.The transparent wire from under the left side igintor looks like it had been cut or snap off as I think I see the continuing portion of this same wire bundled up with the rest of the other wires which leads to the back of the range. Also the Oven/ Broler does not work- The Ignitor works faintly(low click) and in looking light up the pilot flame at the broiler area but the burner does not light up- i treid to light it manually and nothing happens- I dont think that the gas is coming thru the burner but only to the pilot flame . Please help .Thank you

8

One very important question:
does the flame on the oven pilot light extend when you turn the thermostat on?
If it does, then you can fix the rest of problems.
If it does not, then the oven thermostat has to be replaced among the other parts and the thermostat is no longer available.

Gene.

9

Dont know what you mean if flame extends? When I turn the knob of the Oven/Broiler ON the iginitor clicks(faintly) the pilot flame goes on and remaims On but the burner next to it does not- It looks like the gas is not flowing thru the burner- I tried lighting it with a manual lighter even with the pilot flame On and it does not light up- please advice. Thanks for your help

10

In my opinion the following parts have to be replaced:

Gene.

11

In your opinion- Can I just change the 2 surface ignitors for the stove to work.
I can live without the oven/broiler for now. How difficult is it to change these ignitors? Do I have to change the spark Module too?
Thank you

12

The stove and the oven are operates absolutely separate. In order to fix just the stove you have to replace the igniters and the spark module.

The job is not very complicated. Just be careful and do not forget to remove the power from the range first.

Gene.

13

Same problem, my fix involved swapping the broiler ignitor with the oven unit to get it up and running. The only issue was with the wire lengths.
Now I’m ready to order the round ignitor but the photo does not show the mounting tab located at the rear with 2 holes approx 1/2" apart.
The mounting looks similar to the flat model.
Any ideas???

Thanks
geeo

14

The mounting bracket is not shown clear on the picture but it is a standard for all kind of the round igniters and it will match up with your old one.

Gene.

15

I have a frigidaire natural gas range model PLGF389CCA with an oven that has been slow to heat up. After reading these posts, I have concluded it is probably the igniter. I took the oven floor up and removed the flame spreader and turned the oven on, but the igniter did heat a very little, but it did not get red hot or anywhere near that after 20 seconds, so I turned the oven control back off. I conclude that the igniter is most likely the problem, and since I don’t have an amp meter I can’t check the current draw.

I have taken the igniter off its mounting by unscrewing the two screws holding it in place. I cannot see how the wires are connected to their supply since they are only about 2 inches long and appear to go into the back of the oven. I have seen posts here that say to cut the wires and attach the new igniter using ceramic wire nuts, which will be somewhat difficult given how short the existing wires appear to be. If it is simple to do, I would prefer to attach them at their source, but I don’t know how to access that. Any words of wisdom /voice of experience are appreciated.

Thanks for the help,
Brad

16

Hi Brad,

Pull the range out, remove the back cover and you will access the igniter connection.

Gene.

17

Thanks for your help!
Brad

18

G.e. Oven Replaced Ignitor Oven Still Will Not Light

19

What was the original problem?

What is the complete model number of the unit?

Did you perform a troubleshooting prior to replacing the part?

Gene.

20

Original Problem Over Or Broiler Will Not Light
Model#jgbc20gev3wh
No Prior Troubleshooting