Ge spacemaker - Burning rubber and stopping during spin

Washer Repair
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Brand: GE
Model Number: GUD27ESSJ0WW
Main Symptom: freezing during spin
What happens & when: I am usually able to run one load no problem. However on the second load, which is not over packed and is balanced, the washer often freezes up during spin. It often doesn’t really ramp its speed, then stops, flashes spin in green and won’t unlock for a while. Afterwards, I have smelled burning rubber and the motor remains very hot for hours (even with breaker off)

A few related or unrelated notes, I’m not sure. Between the drain and spin phase thewasher makes two or three very loud clunks, where the motor tries to spin up. I have attached a video of this as well. Tests listed below

Error Code (if any): none noted
Parts or tests already tried:

  • Cleaned both pulleys to remove all grease and residue.
  • Replaced belt
  • Tightened belt
  • Loosened belt
  • Replaced spin/balance sensor
  • Confirmed lid lock is working
  • Confirmed machine is level with bubble level
  • Ensured no obstructions
  • Checked suspension rods
  • Manually rebalanced load

Photos / video link: Imgur: The magic of the Internet

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I’m sorry to tell you your drive motor ( GE WH49X25738 Washer Dryer Combo Drive Motor And Control Board Kit | Genuine OEM Part ) windings are burnt and it needs to be replaced

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Hi Jeffrey - thanks for the response. Had a feeling it could be a motor thing. I’d rather replace a motor for 250 than a whole machine for 1500+

Question is whether the control board is totally necessary, because it feels like the motor, not board is the issue. According to my research, it seems that they’re is no indication both are necessary.

Also, would you suggest replacing the shifter hub, transmission pulley, etc. As well? Or based on the video do you think that’s working fine? Once I’m in there it’s an easy enough fix to do both. Trying to understand what that massive clunking sound is, or, if that’s normal?

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The board is an integral part of the motor on those GE models, which is why they’re so expensive—you can’t get one without the other.

As for the shifter and related parts, they weren’t causing the clunk. The motor itself was. Go back and watch your video closely. You’ll see that the clutch actuator never moves, but the motor jerks a couple of times, and every time it jerks, you hear the clunk.

I would suspect a failed bearing in the motor that’s allowing the rotor to contact the stator, or possibly the output shaft striking the housing.

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Thanks - The actuator at the end seems to move down very slowly, which then locks the gears in place with a super quick snap.

Once it’s in place, that makes sense that should be no reason the actuator makes that sound. It doesn’t move after the gears are locked as you mentioned. So your assessment feels spot on since the clunks are during every rotation.

Re the board, based on my research you can acquire a new motor without the board (the technical updates never state they need to be used in conjunction.) So, if it’s a physical motor bearing or other physical issue, wouldn’t the board just be electrical? Just wondering what the board actually does in this situation?

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The Drive Motor and Control Board Kit is an OEM part for GE washers. It includes both the drive motor, which powers the movement of the wash basket or tub during cycles, as well as the control board which communicates with and regulates the functions of the motor. This integrated kit works seamlessly to provide the necessary wash and spin motions.

That is from our literature , We have to follow OEM guidelines when recommending repair parts

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Thanks Jeffrey - I appreciate all your help. Let’s see how it goes!

Are there instructions to help install the board?

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yes it comes with the motor but if you get it and it doesn’t just reach back out to me

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I replaced the motor, however the clunk sound still happens (the prior motor spun smoothly as well).

Without being hooked to the motor/belt, I spun the agitator and it spins smoothly and freely, with the transmission pulley moving similarly. The basket also spins smoothly and freely with the shifter hub.

When hooked to the motor with the belt, the agitator when spun by hand seems to “catch” and get a bit jammed every quarter to half turn, but with a little more torque it spins past that point. That said, the machine has never once had a problem in the agitation cycle. The basket itself also spins freely and smoothly when hooked to the motor.

Per the video you mentioned the actuator seemed fine, but I’m wondering, is this part of it? I took off the actuator and appears one tab is rubbing and melting off and the actual white transmission cog is worn around the cylinder where the actuator tabs would potentially contact it (why they make it so tight left and right is beyond me) howver, it’s now worn smaller so shouldnt rub more) Unfortunately, the lower black cog is so sized up it will just not come off to be able to replace it all.

So, I replaced and centered the actuator, a new belt, new speed sensor, and motor, and I get a serious burning smell with a normal size load during the spin cycle. It also continues to seems like it just won’t get up to max speed to spin. Just spins one way, at 40-50% then stops then tries again. But the belt seems totally fine, no glazing, and as you know everything is new (the speed sensor is also replaced).

The magnet on the motor is fully in tact and while the pulley spins level, the plastic holding the magnet is a touch bit wonky, probably 1-1.5mm off which causes a little wobble in the magnet. But it’s consistent and may be factory tolerances?

What could this smell and issue be? It has no problem agitating or shifting between cycles. Maybe the transmission shaft causing friction, which may explain the transmission pulley melting to the shaft. But can’t for the life of me figure this one out.

20260822_145621
20260822_1456213024×4032 2.76 MB

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The only thing really left to cause the issue is the transmission itself

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Was my thought too, though my understanding is that it’s a bear of a repair on the stacked spacemaker since you either need to remove the whole drum or turn the machine on it’s side, and we can’t just do it by removing the front panel - unless I’m mistaken?

Thanks.

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You are very correct and it is very labor intensive

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Figure I’ll give it a shot.

Odd the machine will spin up when empty but can’t handle the load of laundry howver the basket spins smoothly and freely. The last spin cycle I tested it simply just spun slowly for a while until I smelt enough burning to say enough.

I did notice the motor pulley was super hot.

Any thoughts? And I appreciate your help.

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The motor pulley not the trans pulley? That is usually indicative of 1 of 2 things

  1. Belt slipping
  2. Bad motor overheating and the heat is being transferred down the shaft to the pully
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Correct, motor pulley - meaning the shaft is over heating. It’s a new motor as we know. But why would it overheat if the load is a norm size, and every other component on the drive train is replaced (except the transmission for now)

Can’t understand why there would be excess resistance on the motor if the drum spins freely.

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Have you tried spinning it from the bottom at the pulley? What was wrong with the old motor? Do you still have it? Try running it with the belt off in spin and see if the pully gets hot.

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Spins fine from pulley.

Replaced the motor bc you had mentioned burnt windings earlier.

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Then what is going on. So both motors have the same symptom? I’d say it’s got to be in the transmission or the control system. Would you be ok with running some of the self diagnostics that are on the mini manual I’m attaching
31-16868 GE GUD27ESSJ1WW Laundry System Mini Manual.pdf (9.8 MB)

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31-9208.pdf (2.7 MB)

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Sure which ones do you want me to run?