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Brand: Frigidaire Model Number: LGUB2642LF2 Main Symptom: Freezer ice maker not working What happens & when: This may be unrelated, but my freezer door was left cracked open overnight and there was some ice buildup. I unplugged the unit for 24 hours to defrost and when plugged back in, the freezer ice maker no longer operates. I’ve run some preliminary diagnostics and discovered the output at the freezer ice maker coil/valve (blue) is around 33V when manually turning the freezer ice maker instead of 120V. When I swap the wires from the water fill valve to the blue ice maker valve and push on the water fill paddle, water flows into the ice maker, so I think my valves are okay. I’m struggling to back-trace where the voltage drop is coming from on the wires to the blue coil, which is a yellow wire with a blue stripe. Would this be a bad control board underneath the fridge, or the ice control board behind the fridge? The board behind the fridge with the same color scheme is reading 51V.
You have diodes in that black harness going to the water valve that could be bad.Not all valves going to get 120 volts as there is a voltage drop.Here is your tech sheet and some information.
Thanks. Looks like I already did the test in the sheet you provided to rule out the valve itself. I’ll check the diodes to see if maybe one of those is bad.
If you set your meter to VAC and hook the meter probes to the ice maker wire connection from the yellow wire with blue stripe pin 2 to the ground wire pin 1 (while ice maker is plugged in and door switch taped down), does the ice maker produce 120 Volts AC at the end of the harvest cycle when manually set to harvest?
The ice maker is dead. Doesn’t do anything. The yellow wire with blue stripe is the wire that goes to the blue coil on the water valve which fills the freezer ice maker. That is only getting 33 volts when put the meter on both leads as shown in my picture… the yellow with blue wire and the pin is a light blue which i believe is neutral.
On the actual freezer ice maker, I get 124 volts when the leads are on the yellow wire and the black wire on the 4 pin plug when the door switch is closed. When I manually turn the ice maker gear, it eventually drops from 124 volts and then goes back up as I continue to turn the gear.
The voltage test needs to be done right at the ice maker itself. That’s the key to figuring out whether the problem is coming from the ice maker or the wire harness, especially since this model only sends 33 volts to the valve.
On this design, the main control does not power the water valve. Instead, the ice maker sends voltage directly to the valve at the very end of the harvest cycle — that’s the point when you manually advance the ice maker gear.
So checking voltage at the ice maker will tell us whether it’s actually trying to energize the valve or if the issue lies upstream in the harness. Let me know what voltage reading you get there.
