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Kenmore coldspot 40+ yo. Not running, but interior light is on. Evap freezer fan not running. I tapped the cold control, no change. I cycled the defrost timer, no change.
If the compressor doesn’t start, due to complete compressor failure, or complete relay failure, but there is power to the interior light, should the freezer fan be running?
Brand: Model Number: Main Symptom: What happens & when:
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
My apologies, I cut and pasted wrong model. 106.7625463 is the actual fridge. Please overlook my mistake.
Questions remain the same. Compressor and freezer fan not running, but interior light is on. Can a relay fail completely so no power to compressor, and if so, would the freezer fan still run? I have tapped on the cold control and it still doesn’t start. A total failure of the cold control as if the fridge was turned off would lead to no compressor running and no freezer fan running, I believe. I have cycled the defrost timer manually and it still doesn’t run and no freezer fan. If the defrost timer has failed in the off position, I believe nothing would run, correct. This timer is relatively new.
Thanks
Like Bigbuck1 mentioned just remove the power cord, join the two wires together (no green wires) and plug the refrigerator back in to see if it jumps back to life.
If it does = new control time.
Thanks. I spent a while checking relay, compressor, etc and found nothing. I then removed the 2 wires from the cold control and connected them to an old control that worked. Like magic it started up. You are right on the money, thanks for the help!
This is the replacement relay for the 106.7625463 fridge. My original relay is the old style copper wire electromagnet. It has one tab for the red wire connector that sends voltage thru the overload protector . The instructions offer explanation for connecting if the original relay has 2 or 3 tab connections, no explanation for my situation of only 1 tab. Can you tell where i would connect the single wire when the relay fails?
Thanks for the assistance. This model has no capacitor. There is only the single red wire plus the common to the compressor. part specified on Sears parts direct Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay 4318083 is what I have in hand with the instructions I uploaded. The part is the same as specified on all seller sites. The original coil electromagnet relay has been discontinued and is no where to be found. I am hoping for a reply from Jeff Sr or Bigbuck1. They have so much experience, surely they have encountered this situation.
Long distance wiring is not my specialty, but your diagram posted one wire goes to the overload and other wire should go to terminal #5 on the relay.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for trying to help. Just to explain further, I have one red wire to the overload, and one white common to the top pin of the compressor. No other wires, no capacitor. terminal 5 and 6 are the relay connection to the 2 bottom pins on the compressor. The question is, if I only have one red wire with a spade terminal, can I attach it to any of the 4 spade connectors on the relay, so that it doesn’t matter? I am afraid the compressor may run but never shut off if the wrong connection is made, and that would over heat and burn up the compressor. If this is the correct replacement relay, and all sites say it is, and the instructions don’t give the single red wire connection option, then I just don’t get it. Maybe someone who reads this has encountered the problem and can advise?
TERMINALS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE RELAY ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER AND THE ONES ON THE LEFT SIDE ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER.This is probably upside down picture of the relay because it can be used on different style compressor design.The overload is usually hook to common terminal on the compressor.What was wrong with the original relay? PTC Terminals.pdf (178.8 KB)
Here are pics as Jeff sr requested. Bottom pic show only 2 wires.
Top pic show white wire to top pin of compressor. Red wire attaching to overload and then smaller gauge red coming from overload to the only tab on the relay.
No capacitor, no other wires.
Thanks bigbuck1 for the diagram, yes it is upside down for my application. With the pics and explanation, where do I connect the single red wire coming from the overload?
I thought the relay was bad since the unit would run for a few seconds and then start. Magically correcting itself in a couple of hours and then go a few weeks running well, then repeat. The relay checked out but I bought the replacement expecting a failure. In the meantime I was getting a no run situation for days as I described at the very beginning of the post with evap fan not running. You suggested the cold control which I replaced and it started up and has run well since.
Do you think a failing cold control will cause a short start stop situation before it finally fails completely?
Because of confusion in the start relay instructions where there is no mention of the single wire connection, I am trying to find out how to connect if there is a relay failure?